cool thanks guys
i can now get out from under my desk lolol
cool thanks guys
i can now get out from under my desk lolol
HELL NO !!!!!!
use this stuff its the best that i have found www.costeffective.com.au
Boagie (6th February 2011)
I also use these products. Very good. The engine flush is also worth a go, I got about eleven and a half litres out of the sump when I first used it. Am also using Bimrose oils in everything, really quietened the motor down. Bimrose also has an additive in their oils that enhances slipperiness.
Spoons
I use jmax and add AW10 Antiwear from this supplier in my oils,, instant silence and this I tell every one its liquid gold especially in the diff and gearbox no more diff winds and sticky gear changes… im not into promoting company products but its that good.
Boagie (16th April 2012)
I once read a very detailed account of oil structure/analysis and tribology on a web page. It was related to/linked to the Amsoil website. Anyone who knows anything about oils will know that Amsoil is up there with the VERY best. Amsoil synthetic oils outperform Mobil one continuously! The replacement period for the oil is literally staggering. Check out their website and data. (no i don't work or am i affiliated with them, i just prefer to use the very best available products) . Anyway, i digress. The info referred to "additives". The data and argument was leading us towards utilising synthetic oils made from the very best stable "stock", it continued that by putting additives into engine oil rather than uing a better oil, you ran the chance of blocking the oil filters as most high quality oil filters were designed to filter solids of a particular range out of the oil stream and by adding "moly" and "ptfe" type substances, the filter would have a reduced efficiency as the compounds/chemicals had larger a tendency to block/clog filter elements which would then see unfiltered oild tending to bypass the element. I didn't do the research and if i troll through my "favourites" or look again through some other info i will post the link. By the way, some of the info on the Amsoil site about heavy diesel machinery getting 20 000miles+ between oil replacement is astonishing. Seems to verify the notion that fully synthetic is the way to go.
Boagie (16th April 2012)
What about adding additive to the fuel. Where I travel it can get down to -20C in the night and the diesel gets kind of frozen. Doest that damages the engine?
I guess you guys do not have that kind of temperatures in Australia, right?
I run 2 stroke, have done for ages, will do for ever. Its all about the pump. Its the thing you can hear when your engine is idling, it is also one of the most expensive little things if you have to replace it. Once you start running 2 stroke you will notice a significant difference in the noise coming from you pump. Spoke to Berrima Diesel about this is well, they use and recommend 'Flash Lube' and warn against enjector cleaners that are solvent based as everyone forgets that before it gets to your injectors it has to pass through your pump first. Pumps don't like solvents.
There is heaps on 2 stroke oil in your fuel on the internet, I can't remember where but it all starts with a legal rep. from Europe talks about it in length as well as the removal of sulpher. Its a big read, if I can find it I will post.
Has to be mineral not synthetic.
Hope this is of use.
Ty.
Nissoj (22nd April 2012)
ive just started using wynns edt,got an extra 60k's from 115 ltrs.
Scotty B | Take it Off Road or Take it Back
3.0L GUIV 2005 - TIG Welded Intercooler, NADS, Redarc Dual Battery, Additional rear power socket, 2" Lift (Ironman constant load foam cell), Electronic Trailer Brake Controller, Steel Bullbar, 12,000lb Winch, UHF