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Thread: Y60 general renovation

  1. #71
    Expert Petit caillou's Avatar
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    Hello,

    Here's some news to attack the front axle.

    As the heat shield brakes were in poor condition (rust perforating) and it cost a arm from the manufacturer I started with the idea of ​​the remake, it was necessary to strap brains turn before reaching something coherent place in pictures:

    Cut a sheet metal in a circle (this is the hardest)



    Copy the original:



    To the edge:





    Assemble and weld:



    Repeat 4 times:



    Try and adapt to the high temperature paint painting






    Then I attacked a chunk deoxidize wheel hubs, change disks and the inner and outer bearings, paint and implement:





    Disk mounted and protected for the painting:


    Removing rust and paint brake :



    And implementation:







    That's all for now!

    Sincerely,
    Petit caillou.
    Last edited by Petit caillou; 6th May 2013 at 02:58 PM.

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    Bob (6th May 2013), taslucas (6th May 2013)

  3. #72
    Patrol God taslucas's Avatar
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    Thanks again for the photos petit, great to see the detail of your work.

    FanTapstic!
    Hello from Under Down Under!

  4. #73
    Patrol God Bob's Avatar
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    Great Job.............

  5. #74
    Patrol Freak Parksy's Avatar
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    Nice job! Looking great!
    I forgot to ask earlier, how did you go replacing the swivel hub bearings and the front wheel bearings? Did you use a press or is it possible with a couple of sockets and a long thread through the middle with nuts on the end? Is this method even possible?

  6. #75
    Expert Petit caillou's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parksy View Post
    Nice job! Looking great!
    I forgot to ask earlier, how did you go replacing the swivel hub bearings and the front wheel bearings? Did you use a press or is it possible with a couple of sockets and a long thread through the middle with nuts on the end? Is this method even possible?
    Hi Parksy,

    I'll try to explain it clearly.

    To remove the wheel bearings front axle, remove the bearing, then remove the bearing races by typing inside, all around, I use a hammer that weighs 1.5 kilograms and a copper rod (it deforms without scratching the hub body door).

    To remove the bearing pivots up and down, you have two solutions:

    The first is to use a hub hard (see this picture: http://www.lesexplorateurs.org/IMG/arton167.jpg)

    The second: block square plate in a vise, remove the ball and cage type all around with a steel rod in the bearing bracket to the outside, but it's more difficult and you have to work regularly not to mark the media axis.

    In all cases : use eye protection and gloves because the body of the bearing can break and send dangerous pieces.

    I hope my translation is clear enough, not easy to explain these methods in English.

    Hope it will help you.

    Best regards
    Pierre.
    Last edited by Petit caillou; 8th May 2013 at 05:27 AM.

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  8. #76
    Patrol Freak Parksy's Avatar
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    Thanks petit caillou! Very much appreciated! Wheel bearings seem very straight forwards.
    The swivel bearings I'm still abit unclear but I can easily get that tool you pictured. Can you explain the process when using that tool? Does the top bearing come out from the top and bottom from the bottom? Ie does the bearing sit in a taper?

  9. #77
    Expert Petit caillou's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parksy View Post
    Thanks petit caillou! Very much appreciated! Wheel bearings seem very straight forwards.
    The swivel bearings I'm still abit unclear but I can easily get that tool you pictured. Can you explain the process when using that tool? Does the top bearing come out from the top and bottom from the bottom? Ie does the bearing sit in a taper?

    Hi Parksy,

    Check the following link : http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/searc...x=0&submit.y=0

    You will have some better explainations as my translation is not hundred per cent sure about certain specific names

    for the bearing extractor, must hold the bearing with the bearing hooks of the extractor, while being checked on the axis of the pulling screw and the central portion which will put pressure on the central axis of the pivot bearing holder.
    Hope it will help you ( not sure) may be try to find a local friend.

    Best regards
    Petit caillou.

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  11. #78
    Patrol Freak Parksy's Avatar
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    Thanks petit, should have tried the search function earlier. Found a gold mine of info! Thanks for the explanation.

  12. #79
    Advanced jujunini's Avatar
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    Salut l'ami !!

    Je me permet d'écrire en français sur ce topic.
    Je suis impressionné par tout ce travail, à vrai dire, c'est le genre de truc qui me fait ban... (entre autres ! )
    Je suis moi même tombé amoureux d'un Ford Maverick Station wagon essence tb42s que j'ai acheté ici en Australie.
    Je mets les mains dans le cambouis dès que je peux, j'épluche les forums, la doc technique mais j'ai besoin d'aide pour ma suspension.
    J'ai un roof rack assez costaud en alu qui a ete modifie pour y monter une tente de toit, sur le reste du roof rack, j'ai 3 caisses remplies Et les anciens sieges arrieres.
    dans la voiture jai installé un faux plancher pour pouvoir dormir.
    Sous ce faux plancher jai un reservoir d'eau de 65 litres qui est au milieu de la voiture.
    Je roule au lpg/gpl donc jai a la place du reservoir dessence arriere, un reservoir de gaz de 85 litres.
    le probleme c'est que le vehicule est ultra flottant, on sent tout les defaut de la route, c'est super tape cul, quand tu appuies sur un coin de la voiture, elle va osciller, comme si elle flottait.
    En principe jai un 2" lift kit dessus mais je n'en suis pas bien sur finalement.
    mes shocks d'origine sont des old man emu nitro chargers.
    je pensais qu'ils etaient hs, jai trouvé et monté des shocks d'origine quasi neuf de patrol gu mais ça n'a pas changé grand chose du coup je me demande si ce ne serait pas mes ressorts qui sont hs en fait.
    qu'en penses tu ?
    Je pense que j'ai plus de poids qu'ils ne peuvent supporter mais je ne sais pas par quoi les remplacer.
    Si tu as une ou plusieurs piste pour un toulousain d'Australie ce serait chouette !
    Last edited by jujunini; 14th May 2013 at 12:56 AM.

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  14. #80
    Expert Petit caillou's Avatar
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    Bonjour Jujunini,

    Merci pour ton message, belle description de ton installation, effectivement ton véhicule est bien chargé, je pense qu'il existe plusieurs solutions. Tout d'abord si tu ressent les bosses de la route je pense que des suspension sont HS, pas forcément à cause du kilométrage mais parce que ta charge et importante. Si tes ressorts sont HS normalement ton véhicule doit baisser de hauteur. la solution consiste à changer les ressorts pour des heavy Duty en 2", tu as plusieurs sortes de tarage pour les ressorts , tu peux faire une comparaison avec d'autres sur la hauteur de ton véhicule, pour voir s'il est vraiment plus bas à cause de la charge,...

    Je sais qu'il existe aussi des amortisseurs à air comprimé, comme les amortisseurs de camions qui permettent de supporter des charges lourdes, tu peux regarder ici :

    http://www.x2industries.com/aftermar...sion-c-76.html

    Je suis sur qu'il existe des entreprises en australie qui vendent ces produits.

    Entoure toi de professionnels pour te conseiller sur ces produits, les suspensions sont importantes pour avoir de bonnes réactions au freinage.

    Cordialement,
    Petit caillou.
    Bonne chance
    Last edited by Petit caillou; 14th May 2013 at 03:55 AM.

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