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Thread: 2" lift, what parts?

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    2" lift, what parts?

    Just had the patrol suspension redone with standard height King springs and Ironman Nitro shockers.

    This improved the ride but after a bit of a run in the Quorn area I feel I need to move to a 2" lift with some constant load springs.

    On going through threads on this the implications is that this only requires springs, shockers and caster bushes to be replaced.

    Some placed advertising 2" lift kits also list steering dampeners, sway bar extensions and a brake proportioning valve bracket

    So my problem is: what are the parts needed for a 2" lift?
    It’s a 2005, ST patrol with ZD30 engine

    The current new springs and shockers in the GU wont be wasted as they can go into the Maverick.

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    Expert ozzymalone's Avatar
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    From my understanding you should only need springs and coils with a 2inch and no caster bushes. Any higher and the caster can be a problem.
    If fitting larger tyres, a steering damper might be worth considering but not 100% needed. Swaybars will still be fine and I believe the brake proportioning valve bracket will be fine too.

    Hopefully one of the 'experts' can re-assure me here....just going off what I've read/heard.
    SPEED METAL NEVER WENT AWAY>>>>> ONLY OUR HEARING DID!!!

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    X 2 with above you'll only need coils and shocks
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    Won't be fitting bigger tyres. The castor bushes were the biggest bit of confusion. I read somewhere on one of the company's selling 2" lift kits said you should also include castor bush changes even for a 2" lift. Other places only consider them as a possible addition if you feel like it.

    Still got to make that final decision on spring and shocker brands as well as the foam vs gas shockers.
    Ah decisions!!!!

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    Patrol Freak lorrieandjas's Avatar
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    Hi mate - I recently put in a 2" lift and did not do anything other than springs and shocks. The rest is stock standard. If you go to 3" or more you will then need to start swapping other bits out. If you are doing it yourself one trick is that the brake line on the front may be stretched when you are at full flex - however where it attaches you can lever the bracket up an inch or so and it won't be stretched any more!

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    2012 Silver GU 8. Bullbar, Warn XD9000 winch, snorkel, towbar, roof bars and rack, awning, 33" Mickey Thompson ATZ 4ribs, 2" lift - Dobinsons coils and Koni shocks, more to come......

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    Bloodyaussie (9th April 2013), ozzymalone (10th April 2013)

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    Expert Biscuits's Avatar
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    Springs and shocks, and i would be wary about putting the constant load in, they are VERY stiff, I have them in mine and wish that I went softer.
    33's, 2' lift, Snorkel, Warn XD95000 Winch (Just exploded... July 2014), UHF, 6 Point Cage, and no clue on how to use any of it... I drove over a gutter once!!! and it wasn't the rounded variety either!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Biscuits View Post
    Springs and shocks, and i would be wary about putting the constant load in, they are VERY stiff, I have them in mine and wish that I went softer.
    That was one thing I am a bit cautious about. I don't run big loads in normal day to day work so constant loads could be an over kill.

    As it is this is not a 'got to do tomorrow' project. So I will do a bit more background into this anyway.

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    Hardcore 04OFF's Avatar
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    If you want to retain your swaybars, and like to go doing serious 4wding, id suggest longer link pins, on full flex you will be stretching the rotational travel of the swaybars (especially the rear) and you may bend or break a link pin as i did.

    Your swaybars should sit pretty level so they have equal travel (or swing up and down), after the 2 inch lift they will be pointing "up" as if the suspension is at half flex already, so on full flex it puts great strain on the links and bushes.

    As the others said, you dont "need" to do it if you dont do anything hard, but just be aware of it just incase.
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    You can get brackets to extend your chassis/ sway bar mounts from arb I paid 15$ 3 yrs ago and they make front and rear ones cheaper option then longer links that will set you back a few more $ unless you like the idea of dislocating ones

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    i used to work for ARB as an installer doing alot of suspensions first question what sort of bullbar steel or alloy ,winch? what sort of load are you thinking of carrying the last thing you want is for it to sag when loaded when your going away? sales guys you to sell everything castor bushes swaybar extension brackets. when i did my own i went for heavy fronts springs i think 150kg and 200kg constants in the rear ,steel bullbar and winch to come and carrying camping gear for a family . even without winch and a full load still handles great offroad .OME suspension . a good retailer should ask you what your intentions are and be able to work out something that will suit exactly what your looking for.

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