wouldnt you still need the extended brake lines and arms for a 2 inch body and 2 inch suspension lift?
trying to decide this same q myself.
wouldnt you still need the extended brake lines and arms for a 2 inch body and 2 inch suspension lift?
trying to decide this same q myself.
What engine is it? As with the rb30 I had gu 2" and 2" body and all I did was lower aircon pipes on firewall and cut slot for 4L everything else was absolutely fine I know the 4.2 pet and diesel etc you have to do most things or you might even be able to shorten rad hoses instead of lowering it
IF ITS NOT BROKEN IT MUST BE A PATROL
No brake lines do not get effected by body lifts as there not connected to the body
IF ITS NOT BROKEN IT MUST BE A PATROL
I have adr approved goodridge ones in both of my cars :s
Bit confused now lol some people saying nothing has to be modified others saying stuff had to be modified? suppose I will just do it and see if we run into any issues...
4.2 you will need to slot floor to use 4L adjust rad release aircon pipes off clips on fire wall there's one more thing I'm missing lol.
-Braided brake lines
-brake bias bracket
-new coils
-new shocks
-both panhards
-draglink
-rear lower control arms
-new front radius arms. This stuff is not needed for a 2" lift with 2" body lift
IF ITS NOT BROKEN IT MUST BE A PATROL
As Westy said. All you need for a 2in suspension lift is shocks and springs. Like I said earlier, I would use coil spacers for a lift, they are more intense for leveling out our ride.
You can fit caster correction bushes if you wanted but they are not totally necessary.
Ok, from experience with mine running a 2" suspension and 1" body
Remove bottom section of radiator fan shroud. It clips on and off, this gives the fan the clearance needed.. (your already running a 2" body so should be fine..)
Brake lines yes, they connect from axle to body so need to be done. To be safe..
Also a 4" brake bias bracket to correct that..
As your already running a 2" body lift the main brake line from master cylinder to chassis is already modded.. and you should have already fixed the low range stick clearance issues.
I made some fill in panels to suit the new lift, it greatly assisted in engine heat reduction. Just used old conveyor belt..
So really, springs, shocks, castor correction if you like, brake lines, you should be good to go.
No need to do any rods as they are all with in the limits of adjustment. If money burns a hole in your pocket, go for it.. but not needed..
When I pull mine off the road I will be fitting up some engine block spacers to lift it back into the right position. This will assist in the low rage stick issues and remove the need for gear box drop spacers.
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Last edited by BigRAWesty; 6th April 2013 at 08:35 AM.
Cheers
Kallen Westbrook