recovery points

[tkn]

Yes, you know with rated recovery points that they will withstand the force you intend to apply to them. Emphasis here on the "intend". Lots badly underestimate the amount of force required to "rescue" a vehicle, especially one that is down to the axles in whatever. Whether you are stuck in sand or mud or ruts, a bit of road building can significantly lessen the recovery forces e.g. by maybe 1/2. One recovery point at the rear or the front of the Patrol might be enough to recover the vehicle, but if it is badly stuck then applying all the recovery force at the one point on a chassis rail risks permanent distortion to the chassis. Spreading the load over two recovery points (front or rear) reduces the force transferred to each during a recovery, especially if used with a bridle chain - the objective is to have each recovery point subject to 1/2 of the force required for recovery. So if you have two recovery points (hooks or plates) rated at say 4 Tonnes then you can safely apply 7 Tonnes to recover the vehicle - a bridle chain will help to evenly distribute that force i.e. 3.5 Tonne to each chassis rail.
It looks like the bolts or screws in the pixs of the recovery plates are high tensile and NOT mild steel (hardware store variety). The safety of the recovery plate installation depends upon fasteners that will not fail and their secure (read "fully tightened", with a tension wrench if need be) fastening to the chassis rails. The price of some high tensile fasteners is a bit of a horror story, but don't compromise. Like with recovery plates or hooks go for higher than necessary rating, rather than under rating.
Not in favour of tow bars, balls, hitches - pintle or otherwise, as recovery points. That is not their intended purpose. Put simply - they are not designed for that use.

[YNOT]

I agree with most of what you said above.
I would not recommend the use of a bridle chain, I believe using a properly rated bridle strap would be safer as it removes a heavy object from the recovery. I realize snatch blocks and shackles are heavy but they have not lighter alternative.

That's just my opinion, others may disagree.

Tony

[NIZZBITS]

I've heard of that also, but know no-one who has actually done it though - might be a few on the forum that can shed more light on it. It makes perfect sense to do so, but without going and crawling under the car, not sure if the inside of the chassis rail is plated to accomodate the bolts (on the LHS), not sure if the bolt holes are even there, etc, etc so it may involve some small modification, and would certainly need to be engineer approved (not a back yard job).

The later models (after 02) that have the hook on one side and the bolt go vertically up are swappable from side to side. Better idea though is to whack another one on the other side and use an equalising strap on both to share the load.

[tkn]

I hear you YNOT, a bridle strap would be preferred. The question is how to find a rated strap.
A bridle chain is easy – go to a lifting supplier and specify the length and rating of the chain you want, grab a couple of rated ends and you have a rated bridle chain.
Maybe someone knows a supplier of rated customised straps - or one suitable for use as a bridle.
The best I can think of is a fabric lifting sling – it would have to be doubled up, but might serve the purpose of a relatively light rated bridle thing.

[GUte]

There are plenty of bridle straps readily avail, tree trunk protectors can be used also.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/4WD-EQUALISER...item45f587f147

So the hook on the drivers side of my GU should not be used as a recovery point?

[DX grunt]

So the hook on the drivers side of my GU should not be used as a recovery point?

Definitely not. My understanding is that they were shipping tiie down points during transportation. Many people use them as recovery points, but I don't think they're safe enough and I won't be hooking up either as the recoverer or recoveree to anybody.

I'm not DIY savvy and pay to get everything done.

Read article #11 (page 2) on this thread. I bought a pair (L&R) from ARB, for about $50 from memory. The guys actually took the 'hook' off and replaced it with the proper recovery points.

You'll need to get the salesperson to get under your truck and have a look because there are different types. Mine curves at the top.

I'll get under my truck shortly and post another pic or two.

Take care out there.

Ross

[DX grunt]

Here's what I have on DX grunt for front recovery points .... 2005 GU DX ute. I have a left and right hand side. I think they're sold in pairs only.

[Dhuck]

As NIZZBITS said use an equalizer strap. Readily available from any good 4x4 outlet. Extreme Limits have them from $38.50.

[the evil twin]

OK... just to keep the keyboard war going... Rated means that a device has been engineered and then tested (usually destructive) and rated to a specific Safe Working Load.

EG a 4.2 tonne rated shackle, an 8,000 lb rated sling or strap.

Sooo if the aftermarket Recovery Points from ARB, TJM, et al are genuinely "Rated" what is the Safe Working Load?

I suggest (slightly tongue in cheek) that the vast majority of recovery points flogged by Shops are no more rated than the Nissan points. NOTE, that I am not arguing which is stronger I am arguing that the vast majority of aftermarket poinst are not truly rated either and it is just a generic term used for Sales...

This actually gets on my goat a bit possibly because as an SES trainer I stress to people that lives depend on ensuring you budget your gear for the correct loads and a statement of "that is OK to use because it is rated" usually gets "Cool, rated to what load?" response from me.

If you can't tell me the answer to that question then the piece of kit is useless, well not useless exactly, but is being used with equal ignorance to it's safe working load as any other piece.

Rant over...

[tkn]

Someone may correct if I am wrong, but “ratings” are usually related to some sort of Standard e.g. Australian, British, American.
The Standard sets out “boundary parameter” such as intended use and the means by which a product is to be installed and/or operated.
A testing authority, such as a NATA testing operator, will test a product in regard to its compliance with a Standard (in all respects).

In the absence of a Standard, a Standard might be adopted as being relevant and applicable to the testing (and “rating”) of a product and the report that issues from the testing authority will spell out in detail what aspects of the Standard were adopted as relevant to the testing.

Testing to “destruction” is not essential, but a manufacturer having incurred significant expense in arranging the test will usually ask that its product is tested to destruction for (a) R&D purposes and/or (b) “bragging rights”.
The important bit is that a test by a NATA testing authority report is generally more reliable than a set of manufacturers/importers claims floated in the ether.
But keep in mind that testing authorities only test what they are asked to and paid to test. It is not their job to create “boundary parameters” or any standards.

A difficulty with recover items – e.g. plates, hooks, straps, etc. – is that there is a wide variety of directions in which force is and may be applied to those items.
For example, lifting chains and hooks are tested in a straight line pull – chains intended for use as slings are tested differently.

So it is that in the absence of anything better, “ratings” or pseudo ratings are created by drawing a line between equipment used for lifting and the same equipment used for “pulling” i.e. recovery uses.
Although strictly speaking the “pulling” use is not the same as a “lifting” use, many would probably agree that “pulling” is a lesser use.
Accordingly, many would accept a NATA tested “lifting” product as generally suitable for “pulling” uses.

Without a written report by an independent testing authority, no one can truly say whether or not a product will perform the way and to a standard for which it may have been designed.

That’s it for the time being.