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Thread: Pertronix - Hall Effect Vs Lobe Sensor what is the difference?

  1. #11
    Expert Irvs's Avatar
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    Forget the picture on ebay they may have sent you the wrong one, two ways to tell, open the box and see If the instructions tell you to machine the flange down.

    Second way is to open up your dissy to the breaker plate and see if the magnet ring slides on to the base of the dissy shaft, if it doesn't you've got your answer
    1990 Ford Maverick, 4.2 Carby, 2" SL, 2" BL, Dual Batts, 33" Maxxis Big Horns

  2. #12
    ckh
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irvs View Post
    Upload a photo of the Box, Parts you have and the instructions. I got the Ignitor 2 and Flamethrower 2 which is a Hall Effect setup and I had my Fitter and Turner mate turn the shaft down for me, some people use a grinder, could use a a file and a drill press if you where careful enough.

    Also you don't have to take the Dissy out of the car, you can pull it apart while in the bay and still mounted but you have to be aware of which way the rotor button was facing.

    To disassemble the Dissy you take off the dissy cap leaving leads on it and cable tie out of the way, then mark which direction the rotor button is pointing on the housing of the dissy, remove rotor button and dust cap, you will see the points and condenser that sits on the side of the dissy, remove all the screws to pull out points and condenser (all screws except 2 that hold down the breaker plate) for the Lobe Sensing type, for the Hall Effect type you need to remove the dissy shaft, to remove the shaft you need to take out the extra two screws holding down the breaker plate and remove the circlip on the vacuum advance (be careful it doesn't go missing), remove the vacuum advance and the screw that's down the centre of the dissy shaft, lift out the breaker plate and you will see the two springs with the govenor weights on them, the shaft just slots in on two little studs and should slide out, take out the shaft machine it down and replace in opposite order repacking with high temp grease, on the position the points used to sit roughly you will put the ignitor and on the shaft you will put the magnet ring on first with the hexagonal internal diameter facing up, then the white spacing ring on top, should all just sit below the top of the rotor button.

    Hope this helps

    Irvs

    if you follow the ebay link in above posts you see the exact one I'm getting otherwise here is a pic they display
    http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ign...ox_example.jpg

  3. #13
    RIP - valued member and true gentleman of this forum that will be missed by many! Silver's Avatar
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    I bought a Pertronix lobe sensor about 2 years ago.

    It replaces the points.

    I later bought one of those extended rotor buttons from a crowd in Vic. The mech over the road grew up with the intro of the anti pollution gear, and explained why the factory installed big gaps, and why petrol heads like small gaps between rotor button and dissie cap.

    I left the Bosch GT 40 coil, but put in heavy plug and dissie leads.

    Silver has a TB42, petrol only.

    You set the timing by turning the dissie. There seems to be no way to set the dwell. I put the dwell meter on, the numbers were not those listed in the manual. I scratched my head, looked at the instructions, had a look on line, and found nothing about setting the dwell. It ran as well with the lobe sensor as I got it to run with points, so I did the obvious thing and put the dwell meter away :-). I kinda miss doing the points every 5 000 ks, or when the motor lost that crisp response..... but have managed to get over it :-)

    I think I saw a recent ad for the Hall effect (turn down the shaft option) that listed adjusting the dwell as one of the functions.

    I went for the lobe sensor because it is easy to undo and put points back in.
    RIP - valued member and true gentleman of this forum that will be missed by many!

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  4. #14
    Expert Irvs's Avatar
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    Haven't you got it yet?

    They use a generic pic for the pertronix on most of their listings, that's not one for a GQ alternator displayed.

    I've been working under the assumption that you had it already. Not much we can do except wait if you don't have it yet.

    General consensus is that the Hall Effect is better, this is how they make the new Ignitor 2 which has a few upgraded features and self protecting features.

    Be aware that you can burn out your pertronix if you leave the ignition on without the engine running with the older model.
    1990 Ford Maverick, 4.2 Carby, 2" SL, 2" BL, Dual Batts, 33" Maxxis Big Horns

  5. #15
    Expert Irvs's Avatar
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    Silver I think you adjust the dwell by spacing the ignitor closer or further away from the magnet sleeve, I left mine stock as I haven't upgraded my leads or replaced plugs yet
    1990 Ford Maverick, 4.2 Carby, 2" SL, 2" BL, Dual Batts, 33" Maxxis Big Horns

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    Silver (16th September 2012)

  7. #16
    Patrol Freak BillsGU's Avatar
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    In point terms the dwell angle is the time that the points are in contact or closed. In an electronic ignition this is usually adjusted by using a screwdriver to adjust a "pot". Some adjust themselves automatically.

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    Silver (16th September 2012)

  9. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ckh View Post
    if you follow the ebay link in above posts you see the exact one I'm getting otherwise here is a pic they display
    http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ign...ox_example.jpg
    Mate, the ppl posting here are trying they're hardest to try & help you not argue with you..... Take a step back & have a really good read of whats been posted, it's all really good sound advice & if your unsure what it is your getting then at least after reading whats been posted in your thread you'll have a better idea on what questions to ask your supplier.

  10. #18
    ckh
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    Quote Originally Posted by patch697 View Post
    Mate, the ppl posting here are trying they're hardest to try & help you not argue with you..... Take a step back & have a really good read of whats been posted, it's all really good sound advice & if your unsure what it is your getting then at least after reading whats been posted in your thread you'll have a better idea on what questions to ask your supplier.
    Confusing part is in the descritpin on ebay its says its lobe sensing, no grinding needed, but further down it say thre magnets do the hal mark effect... All the guy fro the usa has said to me so far is its the new improved model as no one wants the other model....

    "YOU ARE GETTING 1 PERTRONIX IGNITOR 1762LS LOBE SENSOR FOR THE NISSAN GQ PATROL"
    thrn further down in the description it say "Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out."
    Last edited by ckh; 20th September 2012 at 02:35 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ckh View Post
    Confusing part is in the descritpin on ebay its says its lobe sensing, no grinding needed, but further down it say thre magnets do the hal mark effect... All the guy fro the usa has said to me so far is its the new improved model as no one wants the other model....

    "YOU ARE GETTING 1 PERTRONIX IGNITOR 1762LS LOBE SENSOR FOR THE NISSAN GQ PATROL"
    thrn further down in the description it say "Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out."
    Yes mate I can see your point.... I'd send the seller a msg with your concerns & ask them to explain exactly what it is your getting. If you don't get a suitable reply then chose a seller in which your happy to deal with.

    Remember.... Its your money so you be happy with whom you spend it.

  12. #20
    Patrol God taslucas's Avatar
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    A mate just fitted the pertronix ignitor 2 hall effect along with the flamethrower2 coil (45,000 volts, 0.6 ohms resistance). He reckons it drives way better. I'm just about to order one for me. Check out rusty nails diy thread, he shows how he fitted a pertronix ignitor 1. Lobe sensing (while keeping the factory coil).
    The points are removed for the lobe sensing version. I think it uses a magnet to sense everytime the lobes go past (instead of the lobes mechanicaly moving the points open). The hall effect one uses a magnetic ring that slides over the lobes and gives a better signal to the module. The only reason you need to machine the shaft is so the magnetic ring fits over the little step that the rotor button sits on...

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