No, I did intend to, and even took the camera, thinking I'd have plenty of time plodding along by myself for most of the job.
I know people can pick up a lot more from a photo than from text. It isn't really the most photogenic of projects either - except for some arty shots of grinder sparks etc.
I am a bit slow on my feet at the moment, and the boys just kinda stepped in and I didn't want to get in the way, or slow down more in my spanner selection and handling duties :-).
The tips I can pass on are:
the usual measure twice at least at cut once. The chassis ends were there to check distances etc, as well as the original location of the leg of the T piece.
Tack and then check to see if it will bolt up. The leg of the t piece is tapped to take the bolts.
I understand the welds were triple fillets courtesy of a MIG and an expert hand and eye.
The original factory welds were such that even I would have been embarrased to have made them. One side was significantly under cut, and the other was uneven with some reasonably significant low spots etc. In saying all that, they have been there since 89, and all they do is hold up the alloy bar, the fishin' rods, and a couple of lights. Hopefully there is enough in the bar to fend off a reasonable roo. The one thing that is a bit more serious is that I made up a light weight removable tow bar that is braced around/through the main part of the bar and sits underneath. the towball load from the tinny trailer is pretty low - it is a well set up trailer under a 4.3m pointy punt. the plan is low speed manouvering into the garage. I wouldn't use it to move a caravan.
The bar has no recovery function - all that is down below on the chassis rails - Outback Ideas gear, on both rails, and no more factory hook.
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