What Oil Do You Use for Diesel Engines?

[matto9018]

Just brought 08 CRD... What oil is best for it?? I used delo400 in my old girl in 3L Di.. I reckon it's too thick for CRD at 57,000kms??

Cheers

[killercat]

Having been using Valvoline 5-40 synpower with local Nissan dealers blessing, seems to be an excellent high quality oil.

[mudski]

Castrol Magnatec Diesel here. Engine is much quieter now at start up compared to the Mobil junk that was used in this car prior...What Mobil was used? I dunno on that.

[Shannow]

A mechanic told me that Nissan had issued advice reducing the 15,000 km or 7,500 kms engine oil and filter changes to 10,000 kms or 5,000 kms for severe conditions.

He definitely didn't like the Nissan ZD30 engine or any Nissan for that matter. He defined severe conditions as all normal Australian motoring. He ( cynically? ) suggested something like the idea that in the case of the ZD30 engine, 10,000 kms may be ok if;

- the vehicle was driven constantly for 10,000 kms unloaded;
- never stopped;
- on flat bitumen road;
- engine never exceeded 2,200 RPM or idled more than 30 seconds each hour, and;
- outside air temperature constantly between 15 and 20 degrees C.

Anything different must be considered severe for the ZD30.

Hi, new to this forum, but a,m taken aback by those comments.

I've done used oil analysis on my ZD30 Navara, and it's pretty easy on the oil.

These are the 50,000, and 60,000 km results, each with 10,000km on the oil. Oil was Castrol Magnatec SP 5W-40 (second one had an additive, SX-Up in it).

All values in mg/l, first is this test, second last test, final the alarm.
Aluminium...5.........5.....20
Calcium....2625.....2971
Chromium....<0.1.....0.4....10
Copper.......3........4.....25
Iron.........29......51.....70
Lead.........2........1.....25
Nickel.......<1.......0......3
Phosphorus...694.....728
Silicon......14......15.....15
Sodium........4.......1.....30
Tin...........1.......2.....35
Zinc.........892.....940

FTIR to ASTM E2412
Water........0.021....0.035..0.15 (%w/w)
Soot.........0.013....0.017..0.25
Oxidation......15......13.8...50
Nitration......4.74.....7.26..25
TBN............10.6....10.28 (mg KOH/g)
Fuel Dilution...0.5.....0.5....3.5

All except silicon say that the oil could have gone 40,000 km without upset.

[Shannow]

as to what oil to run, Nissan are emphatic on "nothing better than CF-4", which rules out nearly any proper diesel oil for the ZD30, leaving you with "petrol" engine oils to play with.

I've used
Mobil 1 0W-40 (sold as turbodiesel in Europe, as they use the ACEA ratings, not the API)...best mileage since the original factory fill.
Castrol Magnatec SP 5W-40, which gave the great Oil analysis results above.
Castrol Edge 0W-40 - bad fuel consumption
Recently Mobil 3000 5W-40, with a litre of Motul Estertech 10W-40 in it.

All seems to have worked, as here's the view down the oil hole at 100,000km on the donk.



This 100,000km change, I've switched to Supercheap Auto "Calibre" 5W-30, which is less than $50 for 5.5L. It's actually Caltex 5W-30 C-3 in a supercheap bottle, and has some pretty good approvals, predominantly ACEA specs. And the newer ZD30s spec 5W-30.

It's a very "thick" 30, having a High Temperature High Shear of over 3.5 mPas, which is the realm of 40 weights usually.

As to the older engines, Supercheap's Calibre diesel 15W-40 is actually Caltex Delo Gold Ultra, which is made using Chevron's "Isosyn" basestocks - can be run in petrol engines too, so is an absolute bargain.

Might try Atlantic Oil's 10W-30, as it meets even more specs than the Calibre 5W-30.

[Shannow]

A great tool to check what an oil should be capable of, based on the specifications that it's approved to.

http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/.../pc/index.html

Get the relevant product data sheet from the oil companies website, plug them in, and see how it looks compared to others.

[Shannow]

Gary,

I wouldn’t be too concerned with the manufacturers “W” rating because there is no real standard for it. In some cases you will find a 15W oil to be thinner than a 10W oil between different manufacturers. Check the cSt ratings on the oils spec sheets to get an accurate idea on a particular oils viscosity because there is a standard between manufacturers in this case where they must quote cSt levels at 40 and 100 degrees Celsius (cold start and operating temps). Delo 400 Multigrade would be ideal in your case, particularly if you do a lot of highway driving.

Not to be argumentative, but the xW has very precise specs, and it must meet those specs to get the cold pumping xW on it...and most of those are well below zero C.

The 40C viscosity doesn't have anything to do with the xW spec, particularly as most people in the world never have a 40C Cold Start.

[PMC]

G'day my fellow off-road lounge lizards!

I use AMSOIL Full Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil in conjunction with a Franz oil bypass system. I have used this system for 11 years with my old GQ,GU 4.2 Turbo diesels, D22 Navara,D40 2.5 manual diesel Navara and currently with my 2002 4.2TD. The oil is lot more expensive, however oil change intervals is at 20,000 ks. During 20,000ks, i use a test kit to check oil every 5,000ks whilst replacing the oil bypass filter. I change main oil filter at 10,000 ks. When changing oil filters i just top up the oil that' required usually half a litre. Even at 20,000ks my oil test results still advise that the oil is OK.

The reason why i use AMSOIL is due to towing a camper trailer and boat up and down beaches and some of the serious tracks my mates and i use on the weekends at Coffs Harbour. Due to producing excessive heat under load, it is imperative to use an engine oil than can help disapate the heat and maintain engine performance. The following is a bio on AMSOIL synthetic oils;

"First of all, let's take a brief look at the history of synthetic motor oil and its introduction to the marketplace. AMSOIL Inc. developed the first synthetic motor oil to meet API service requirements. Lieutenant Colonel Albert J. Amatuzio, President and CEO of AMSOIL Inc. witnessed synthetic lubricants in action as a jet fighter squadron commander. He noted that synthetic oils were developed for (and still are used exclusively in) aircraft jet engines because of their ability to reduce friction and wear on engine parts. This preformance was due to synthetic oil having incredible ability to function dependably at severe hot and cold temps as well as to withstand rigorous and lengthy engine operation without viscosity breakdown. This is critical in aircraft engine operation because, if oil breaks down at 30,000 feet, aircraft engines can fail and ... well, you get the picture. Amatuzio decided that he would develop synthetic motor oil to be used in automobiles for the same benefits. In 1972 AMSOIL introduced the first motor oil for automotive applications. In the early seventies, another company was also working on synthetic oil development for the automobile ... Mobil Oil Company. They came to market with synthetic motor oil in 1975. By the 1990's the other major oil companies added their synthetic oils to the marketplace, in addition to their petroleum-based products.

What are the pros and cons of using synthetic oil in my car?

Pros:

•It flows easier in cold weather, therefore no loss of prime when the oil is cold. Also, it is highly resistant to viscosity breakdown (the ability of the oil to flow easily in all temps) from heat, friction, chemical contaminants.

•Longer change intervals: 7,000 - 9,000 miles between oil changes (compared to 3,000 for regular oil). Some folks have documented up to 25K miles between changes. However, I would not advice going that long!

Cons:

• Cost is twice as much as conventional oil per litre. However it lasts longer, so the actual cost increase is closer to 50 - 60 percent.

•Flows easily, therefore not recommend for use on high mileage engines; nor do I recommend using it in new engines during the break-in period because it is so slippery and dramatically limits the wearing of new mating parts within the engine. This initial wearing of parts is what makes for proper engine break-in, sealing of piston rings, mating of camshafts and lifters, etc.

Does it make my engine last longer?

Yes, because its so slippery, synthetic makes for less engine wear and thus greater engine longevity."

Like anything in life, you must research the facts. Eliminate the 80% of bullshit to help obtain the 20% of facts. the 80/20 rule.

PS, this is only my opinion!

Regards RLI

[threedogs]

Does anyone run REDLINE oil,????
Thinks its $450 for first oil change and good for 100k

[megatexture]

if someone ran that and didnt have a catch can imagin the crud in the oil after 100k even after doing filter every 5-10k no thanks lol