Build of Australia's FASTEST PATROL ...Potentially, Using RB26DETT Goodness :)

[MudSlut]

@Dune, Thanks for all that info. I will be having the motor and tune preped by "White Hot motorsport" you might remember them from winning Targa Tas in their in house built GTR and Lambo, They have extensive R&D in the RB26 and know how to tune a motor for any application. I have 100% faith in White Hot to build and tune the RB26 to maximize it's performance for what i need. I'll be taking the Patrol to them soon for a Dyno run to see how much power and torque the TB42 is making now in RWD and 4WD and see how it ends up after the swap on the same dyno and ramp rate.

Back to the build:
The patrol is back on/off the road and it is SO much more drivable now with the low ratio gears, It's a pleasure to drive on the HWY and heaps beter off road now with the Spartan Front locker. As it in now with the 35's and the low ratio gears the speedo is a bit slower than the actual speed by about 10%, so to do 100km/h I have to be doing 110km/h on the speedo. This gives me room to play with bigger tyres if I want and still retain the factory speed. I had a little issue last night of a leaking water pump and I hope to get around to pulling it off tonight after work.

[MudSlut]

Okay I have some photo's to upload of some mods i have done and forgot to talk about.

First is a "Winch Isolation switch" and Control box relocation.

Reason: to prevent vandals from being able to unload the winch cable over the roof and attach it to the rear of the vehicle, shorting out the control box at the wired controller connector and crushing in the roof with the winch cable. So in short, to stop some wanker writing off my patrol for fun.

How to: Get yourself an Isolating switch from Autobarn or some other auto shop, $20 from memory, you'll also need 2 ring type connectors in whatever gauge wire your winch uses for the 12v main power.

Find a spot to mount the Switch close to the battery, I chose the relay panel next to the battery as it was nearly empty and offered good protection for the cables.
Make a template for the hole you need to cut for the switch, I used an old envelope and just cut it out as tight as I could make it using a craft knife (you may want supervision from an adult for this part as blades are sharp) lol
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get some contrasting spray paint and spray the template where you want the switch to sit, then cut it out once it's dry. For this I used a Dremel with a cutting disc and high speed cutter
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There is probably better ways to do this, but it worked for me and wasn't too hard. cut it out bit at a time and keep test fitting the switch to see where needs more trimming. I think you would want a tight fit as you can get to minimize vibration noise or things coming loose.

Fit the switch and check snugness, when your happy with the fit it is time to drill the bolt holes. For this I just fitted the switch and drilled through the holes with a drill bit the exact size of the holes.
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Now clean it up with some "Wax and Grease remover", let dry and paint. Make sure you paint all cut edges and anything that hasn't any paint on it.
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Bolt the switch to the cover and measure out the winch 12v + cable and find out the spot that would be best to cut so that it can reach the terminals of the switch and allow extra length so the cover can be removed and wires accessed easily. Cut the 12v+ and crimp the O connectors onto the cables, I used some heat shrink to cover the ends of the cable and connector, looks tidy and hopefully prevents corrosion when you spray it with fish oil or something like that. We would hate for this to be the reason your winch fails when you need it.
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bolt cover back on, test, cheer, sit down and have a beer. oh and take switch key out and hide in your car somewhere.

[dan dog]

looks good, nice job.

[DC-Auto]

if you want drive-ability you really need torque, for offroad climbing, you have to have low end torque. what is your budget for the build? to get power, you need more efficient turbo/s at high boost, which means bigger. to get torque you need larger engine displacement (stroking). you can get torque with power from small engines, there are 2 ways to do this, twin charge (supercharger & turbocharger), and compound turbo's (small turbo spooling a larger turbo, like heaths GU).

how much power and how much torque are you aiming for?

[taslucas]

Here are the torque and power figures that Matt has previously posted:

As you can see the TB42 makes (128.7 kW; 172.6 bhp) @ 4200 rpm, (320 N·m; 236 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm and the RB26 makes 280 hp (206 kW) @ 6800 rpm and 260 lb·ft (353 Nm) @ 4400 rpm. I know the RB makes it's power at a higher RPM but I don't think it will be an issue considering the TB42 redlines at at 6000 rpm and I do spend a bit of time on the limiter .

[97_gq_lwb]

But if he is having a motor built to suit the patrol surely they can do something with the cams and turbo to change the torque and power vs rpm to something more suitable for the gq.
Even retarding or advancing cams can shift your power and torque figures in the rpm range quite a bit.

[taslucas]

Yeah for sure. Just showing that the
Rb26 makes a lot of torque. As a few people keep inferring that he will be losing torque when getting rid of the TB42.

Tap, crackle, pop

[97_gq_lwb]

Yeah it's funny that old saying their is no substitute for cubes i thought that excuse only applied to gm lol as they need twice the cubes to make the same figures.

[Winnie]

"There is no replacement for displacement!" Dunno about that a turbo does pretty well...

[taslucas]

Yeah it's funny that old saying their is no substitute for cubes i thought that excuse only applied to gm lol as they need twice the cubes to make the same figures.

Yeah every new gm engine puts more power than the last.....quite simply by adding cubes! The only time this wasn't true with a Holden was in the VL..... Go figure!

Tap, crackle, pop