Ok from what i have seen in seriously big mud holes the opposite occurs high power at high rpm makes them bog down dig into the mud further and that's when they get stuck.
High speed entry into the mud works for me though the momentum helps lol.
That's not mud
I know what your saying 97_gq_lwb, but im talking more about greasy hard mud, muddy hills, ruts, clay etc.
Hello from Under Down Under!
heres a mate at my place last winter. TB42 33's, 3" lift, rancho adjustables.. I had a bit of a time trial day.
You gotta rev 'em in the mud
http://youtu.be/ZGUJ6UM_a14
EDIT: ive forgotten how to embed...
Hello from Under Down Under!
Seems you have your goal set on the RB26. Don't be too quick to believe what wiki or some 'review' website tells you. The RB26 will not make decent (READ inexcess of 300kw @ the wheels) relaible power stock day in day out the way you and it shoudl be driven, and that is hard!
First the cercamic turbo's will fail due to heat at high boost and you wont get a lazy excess of 300kw @ the wheels without a cam, larger injectors, turbo upgrade and some forgie's for safe keeping and of course a decent ecu, hopefully one that goes mafless and a good tune. RB26's have the capacity to make crazy bullshit power for such a small capacity motor. But you just ain't gunna keep it for long unless you build it right the first time, or drive it like a pussy, and you ain't gunna do that.
You will find by just turning up the wick (boost) will net you easy gains in HP but you only need look at a RB26 the wrong way and not have something done correctly and it can and will cost you big $$$.
How much confidence do you have in your mecho? How many RB26’s they worked on? Don’t let them tell you “it’s just an engine, same as any other engine”. It ain’t and there are some specific tings that you either just know or you don’t when working on them. I used to drive nearly 4hrs to a one of the tops workshops in Sydney (Silverwater Automotive) to get my GTR worked on and motor rebuilt. One rebuild was simply because another workshop didn’t put together the harmonic balance assembly correctly and the keyway thrashed out.
Don’t get me wrong I am not a hater but don’t be too swayed by what you read on the net about the RB26 pumping out big power out of the box. Stock GTR's RB26' are not particularly fast or awesinspiring. Also, I thought TAS didn’t have PULP, or at least that’s what some of us mainlanders have been told? The RB26 only runs on PULP.
Don’t bother too much with the larger turbo’s if you after response. Nissan didn’t pour huge amounts of money into R&D to cock up on turbo’s. They are well mated to the engine for response and minimum turbo lag. Go bigger if you intended upgrading other go fast bits too otherwise they won’t produce significantly more power over stock for the price.
Cooler piping – keep it down sure, keep the bar and plate stock cooler too, you don’t need bigger for you application it may just end in lag. GTR’s have the best stock cooler by far. No idea for a air-to-water cooler thou. Just another expense possible for not much gain. Also then no one will see your stonking great front mount if you just have some pissy under the bonnet air-to-water unit.
Exh Mani – HKS make a tops one, stainless with a separate pipe for the wastsegate. Which brings me to my next point don’t waste your money on an external gate (you don’t need new turbo’s) and you certainly don’t need external gates, they will grant you no power gains for your application, only some wank factor when you pop the hood or drive on the limittah. Plus their illegal because they vent exhaust gasses to the atmosphere
Twin filters, sure I guess, but try loose the twin MAF’s and perhaps streamline it, let it suck as much air as possible. You could loose power in air restrictions here, more than you would gain with some of your other proposed mods. If you don;t loose the MAF get the 300zx 70mm MAF X2.
ECU – I’d go a MOTEC.
Now go forth and build this monster….
Monster Hp Is N1 block , Big $$$ crank and so on, so go easy.
No extreme hp engine is stock block, the N1 block new still available ex Japan and local.
Frankly The last guy Dune is giving you alot of good advise so take it on board.
No one here is as keen as me to see you finished, grinning from ear to ear as me, as I drive both these you intend to Hybrid GQ & R32GTR.
I sped read thread so bear with me.
I hope you remembered good sump baffles RB26 have a habit of losing oil pressure and there goes all your $$ in 1 bang.
N1 turbos or similar is the go for 300 kW, water and oil cooling is needed also.
Do not use standard ceramic turbos, as Dune pointed out, this will only end in tears if you do, guaranteed.
remote filter & oil cooler will help cooling and added capacity.
Low speed and High revs will need good air flow so extra cooling will be required also, guaranteed.
The list is endless so I'm stopping here.
Frankly I've pondered this myself.
Recon RB has pretty good low torque considering size R32 =1500kg and gearing of gtr.
dont forget gtr good for over 250kph so gear that down to low gq ratios and F###@@#@
low down gearing to spin up turbos you should be busy and changing gears alot.
Good luck and carefull
Last edited by Robo; 30th July 2012 at 09:14 PM. Reason: correction and more
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE