Lots of information on NADS, but nothing to say if it is REQUIRED on the Common Rail engines.
In the ZD30 DI is the DI part a reference to direct injection??
Lots of information on NADS, but nothing to say if it is REQUIRED on the Common Rail engines.
In the ZD30 DI is the DI part a reference to direct injection??
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
Yes Di is direct and you know CR, from what I've been reading fitting the NADS is very worth while for both, having just fitted one myself. My EGTs are now 200 deg C ALL THE TIME, where as before 450- 550 deg C. plus now I control how much boost the engine gets. high on the must do list. need a pyro and boost guage before you start, on the plus side a little better on fuel, I've picked up an extra 30 K per half tank, but will be checking again next fill . Hope this helps a little
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Coogs (4th July 2012)
Interested in your EGT temperature at 200c. I've just fitted a pyro & boost gauges noting my EGT range is 450- 550c and boost up to 15psi with occasional spike to about 17-18psi. Appreciate if you can explain NADS that reduced your EGT to consistent 200c. A reply that a 12yo would understand will be good!!!!!
Coogs- 2009 GU Y61 Patrol 3L-CR, OME 50mm, 3" exhaust, ARB B/ bar, Warn Winch, ARB compressor, Snorkel, UHF & Barrett HF radio, Red Arc Dual Batts, Bushskinz Bash Plate, Cargo Barrier, F/R Recovery Points, Dual Pillar Pod (Pyro & Boost), ARB Rack, LR Tank, Chipit & EGR blank, Water Watch, Drifta Drawers, ARB Reversing Camera, IPF Lights, ARB Awning, GVM upgrade, Front Locker & other touring mods.
threedogs, I think you have a problem with your gauge mate, I would check that as it doesn't sound right.Originally Posted by threedogs
The CRD engines have a much more advanced engine control system so NADS are not necessary unlike the Di's but a few people still put them in.
Blocking your EGR will help reduce the soot build up( but can create engine errors) and a catch can will reduce the blow-by going back into your intake.
ECU controls the boost very well so dowes and needle valve are not necessary.
EGT and Boost gauges are handy as they tell you how things are in the engine. Normal egt temps will be up to around 550deg C in a CRD engine as they run hotter compared to the Di's. I only get there when towing or flogging it uphill.
Personally I have just put the gauges in and nothing else. Better off spending your money on a good hi flowing exhaust
Last edited by Maxhead; 4th July 2012 at 06:24 AM.
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So a hi flowing exhaust reduces your EGT temps?
IT Bitch & Surf Life Saver
Pyro, Boost, 3" exhaust fitted- WHAT ABOUT A CHIP ????
I've just fitted Pyro and Boost gauges to my Patrol CRD to compliment the 3" exhaust. (No NADS). Would you consider chipping a worthwhile exercise. Presently I'm considering Chip IT, DP & Steinbauer. I would like the opinion of others more experienced than myself ...... Regards
Coogs- 2009 GU Y61 Patrol 3L-CR, OME 50mm, 3" exhaust, ARB B/ bar, Warn Winch, ARB compressor, Snorkel, UHF & Barrett HF radio, Red Arc Dual Batts, Bushskinz Bash Plate, Cargo Barrier, F/R Recovery Points, Dual Pillar Pod (Pyro & Boost), ARB Rack, LR Tank, Chipit & EGR blank, Water Watch, Drifta Drawers, ARB Reversing Camera, IPF Lights, ARB Awning, GVM upgrade, Front Locker & other touring mods.
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