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Thread: GQ Roll Over

  1. #31
    Advanced spektrum's Avatar
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    Yep .. will be working on it tonight. Ill post up some photos tomorrow.
    -------------------------------
    1992 Patrol GQ LWB TD42

  2. #32
    Advanced spektrum's Avatar
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    PROGRESS REPORT

    Please ignore all the mud and dust .. I don't want to wash it until I have primed any bare metal areas. I know this should have already done, but spare time is a bit limited these days.

    To reiterate .. my intentions are to repair the vehicle to a 'reasonably clean' condition on a budget. My reasons for this are purely based on this being a 20yo vehicle that only gets used for camping and 4x4'ing. Damage is inevitable within reason (hopefully no more rollovers!). I had only recently installed a newer low-km engine and frequently maintain it .. so it's a reliable old bus.


    I am happy with the results of the roof straightening. All cross-dimensions are now perfectly square. Hydraulic jack and a length 90x35mm structural pine did the trick. I had to make a base to hold the jack on the correct angle with the force vector. This method gave a very controlled force (thanks to 04OFF for the suggestion). New window & rubber fitted with no problems.

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    LHS: Looking a little better now. Snorkel straightened with the use of a heat gun. Gutter still requires attention. Damage to the rear panel; not sure what to do with this. I'll shop around for a good panel beater quote.
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    -------------------
    RHS: RR door has now been replaced. It's a good match, even the dust matches . Rear panels are undamaged. Front guard removed, and waiting for the replacement. Drivers door was actually pushed in on the day, but popped out on its own accord during recovery. It seems to be okay so I won't bother replacing it at this stage. Roof gutter requires attention.
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    Front Guard: The damaged panel before removal. I had to cut off the brush-bar to remove the panel. The brush bar had bent up into the panel, so either way needed to be cut off and straightened. At a later stage I'll fabricate a joint that allows to bolt-on the brush-bar at both ends. Wheel arch flare had all the lugs ripped off.
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    -------------------
    Front Guard: The damaged panel removed. No damage underneath.
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    LHS Roof: With a few good kicks, the roof popped out to achieve the general roof shape. The roof-rack left a few dents. My theory is that the full-length roof rack distributed the load on the roof, therefore minimising any point-force loads. At this stage I will just clean up the damaged paint, and re-spray these areas. The snorkel appears on an angle, but only because I haven't reinstalled the pillar bracket.
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    -------------------
    RHS Roof: Similar to the other side .. symmetrical damage . I started with few spots of primer on the roof. I'm thinking about installing a new roof-rack once the gutters are repaired .. this should partly cover the roof damage.
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    LHS Rear Damage: This was the damage mentioned earlier. It's a pity I can't just unbolt this panel and replace it. In this state it's going to make it difficult to refit the arch flare. I know there are rubber flares available, I just prefer the plastic ones.
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    In my opinion, I think the Patrol sustained surprising little damage considering to the 2 rolls down the hill. Very lucky .. but I'm more grateful that we were uninjured.
    Last edited by spektrum; 29th June 2012 at 03:44 PM.
    -------------------------------
    1992 Patrol GQ LWB TD42

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to spektrum For This Useful Post:

    04OFF (4th July 2012)

  4. #33
    Patrol God taslucas's Avatar
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    Your right about how little damage it got..... Two roll overs would right off most cars. GQs are tuff!

    Tap, crackle, pop
    Hello from Under Down Under!

  5. #34
    Rotaredom NissanGQ4.2's Avatar
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    Do you need plastic rear flares or did they survive?
    Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time



    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

  6. #35
    Advanced spektrum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2 View Post
    Do you need plastic rear flares or did they survive?
    The RR and LF flare are fine (still attached too).

    The LR and RF are damaged. They had most of the mount lugs snapped off.
    -------------------------------
    1992 Patrol GQ LWB TD42

  7. #36
    Expert Brendan56's Avatar
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    A few battle wounds, though as you said i wouldn't do it again. but at least you got out of it with you and the truck intact!

    Cheers mate,
    Brendan.
    If you're following this Patrol, Stop... You're not gonna make it

  8. #37
    Rotaredom NissanGQ4.2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spektrum View Post
    The RR and LF flare are fine (still attached too).

    The LR and RF are damaged. They had most of the mount lugs snapped off.
    Just PM me if you are looking for some 2 replace yours damaged ones, and I will check mine out...... I think mine had a couple of lugs broken 2 but not sure which ones without checking

    Cheers

    Todd
    Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time



    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

  9. #38
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    Now that I've gone this far .. decided to keep going and fully repair all the dents.
    -------------------------------
    1992 Patrol GQ LWB TD42

  10. #39
    Hardcore 04OFF's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pics, Nice work so far, great job on the roof, ive seen worse looking patrols driving around.

    That LHR quarter does look a little nasty, im not familiar with the make up of a Q, but again, as you are obviously pretty handy on the tools, ill throw out my thoughts again ?



    Perhaps you can remove the LH tail light, and gain access behind some of the gaurd damage, use a long bit of steel bar with a flat end (or even a crowbar if you need to), then use a block of wood as a pivot point (placed in a strong area, inside, near where the tail light sits perhaps) and use the bar as a lever to push the dents out, this may allow you to get a basic shape back into the panel.

    Clean/polish the paint so its reflective, and use a vertical fluro work light if you have one, throwing light across the outside of the panel toward your face, this will let you see where you are "flexing" the metal before you push really hard, you can use a rag on the end of your bar when pushing big concaves in the panel, and use a bar corner for real sharp areas.

    Another trick if you use a crowbar, you can get a golf ball and hack saw a slit in it , then fit it over the sharp end of your crowbar, that way it wont put sharp outward high points in the panel when pushing, you can also drill a hole in a golf ball and just bolt it to a bar, or steel rod etc.


    The way i look at it, the panel is already stuffed, so you can only make it better really
    <a href=http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/02ard/PatrolcomAvatar-1-1.jpg target=_blank>http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...Avatar-1-1.jpg</a>

  11. #40
    Advanced spektrum's Avatar
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    Thanks .. Your correct, I can't make it look any worse

    I think the damaged roof areas are now at a stage they can be body-filled.

    As you stated, access behind the LR panel is fairly limited. I'll try the crowbar idea to see how much I can pop it out. My other idea was to pull the panel out using the slide-hammer. I could drill a few select holes, and use the slide-hammer to bang it out. The holes can be welded closed, and body-filler the final job. Thoughts?
    -------------------------------
    1992 Patrol GQ LWB TD42

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