
Originally Posted by
Robo
Not to sure if our problem is exactly the same.
Got sick of std points and plugs and not handling lpg heat and tune and wanted a setup with less maintance.
So I embarked on a retune, and managed to tuned starting problem out about 2yr back.
I put it down to resistance in cap/rotor and std type spark plugs.
Took about 4 attempts at setting iridium plugs to get it just right for LPG.
And backing lpg mix off, very very slightly.
I found that with a extended rotor I lost a great deal of usable power from coil.
so went back to std rotor.
Notice a great deal of power lose with the extended rotor and this backed my theory of electrical power lose available for burn, as torque was not there straight up with the ext rotor, car felt like it dropped a cyl worth of power, so I have a new bute ext rotor for a emergency spare.
The smaller extended rotor gap requires less energy needed to bridge the gap and as a result less energy is expended across gap.
and the same goes for the plugs.
I found that using a std rotor and the smaller "iridium plugs" plug gap gave me a setup that worked for both fuels better, without backfire issues.
The increased energy available for plugs to burn fuel, either fuel, seemed to be working a treat.
I have no flooding issue as iridium plugs exposed finer electrodes and concentrated spark nicely.
plugs are 1 range cooler for LPG and the increased performance from plugs and extended life have paid off nicely from using the iridium plugs.
Iridium handles heat alot better than std plugs, ( 10 fold "so to speak" ).
The only problem I have is the perceived problem of elec power jumping between leads and causing a the odd miss fire whilst driving.
I noticed the burn marks on leads and that's why I recon this is the problem at hand and was seeking to find if anyone else noticed something similar.
cheers
Using Bosch LPG leads.
Epoxy GT30RT coil.
Pertronic cam sensing.
NGK iridium.