GQ woes.

[MudRunnerTD]

The wiring for the interior light should be, Red positive, Black earth and the Black with a pink trace will be an earth when the doors are open.

I was just about to go there Yendor, thanks mate. So the interior light is Switched to Earth?

[Yendor]

Yes, the door when open switches earth to the interior light.

To enable the new interior light to switch on from its own switch I'll say you will need to earth the body of the light.

Have a look at the mounting holes for the light you should see one that has a copper or metal track attached to it (the other end will go to the switch), you will need to connect the Black wire to this.

[MudRunnerTD]

We like you here Rod, your a good man mate alway got great info bud. Cheers

[GQPorkroll]

Hey MudRunner, cheers for that.

RE: control arms/radius rods etc ive never heard of them called control arms, and all my books at work call them radius rods. I'm used to control arms being upper and lower, but I guess like the strut bar/Z bar/radius rod on the Commodore, these also have 5 different names and everyone calls them something different.

I ordered castor correction plates after being told by a workshop to use them, but after finding my chassis end radius rod bush was flogged out, I decided to leave well enough alone on the diff and will replace the flogged bush with an OEM part and also fit drop boxes (mainly as I think the chassis end section is flogged out) so may as well take it out of the equation. That will be done tomorrow.

The previous owner fitted new nola type panhard rod bushes and damper about 6 months ago. I am replacing it with an adjustable panhard bar with rubber bushes and I also fitted a new damper when I did my lift.

I just ordered a non adjustable aftermarket swivel hub kit and wheel bearing kits through work, which I will do in a few weeks time, but I'm hoping to cure the wheel wobble with the drop boxes and new bushes.

[GQPorkroll]

Ok just a quick update. Firstly, Yendor thanks for the info on wiring the light. I'll get out today and have a better look and try to sort it all out.

Next, gave up trying to fit drop boxes on my own. The radius rods are super tight and the 'workshop equipment' I was offered to use consisted of $2 spanners. I brought my socket set just in case and even my breaker bar wasn't enough to crack the bolts. Have up on it and booked it in to a workshop to have it done.

They'll also do wheel bearings, swivel hub kits, check all the rubbers, fit the panhard bar and then do a wheel alignment.

In regards to the interior light, If I take power from the red wire for my CB, and then earth it somewhere other than the wiring for the light, will that work?

[munter]

First off, It has the dreaded GQ shake at about 70k's. I bought the truck and drove it for a blue slip and it didn't happen, I assume the owners tightened everything up to stop it. I got it passed, came home, drove around town for a few days and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Few days later, i noticed traveling over 80k's there was a shake through the wheel and if I was on a corrugated road, it would be almost uncontrollable, but if I stopped, or slowed below 40k's it would stop. At first I assumed it was because it had massively sagged rear springs due to the gas tank in the rear. It actually had 2" lifted springs but was dropped lower than standard due to the weight.

Wasn't overly concerned as I had new (balanced) wheels and tyres, shocks, springs and damper to fit.

Fitted them all up (35's and 3" lift), all Ironman and its still doing it.

I have now ordered drop boxes, radius rod spacer, camber correction bushes and plates, and new bushes for the front end, new wheel bearings and an adjustable panhard bar, new shims and will inspect everything else while I'm around there fitting the rest. Once its all fitted, I'll take it for a wheel alignment and another balance.

what brand tyres and wheels did you get?
some cheaper brand rims can cause headaches in balancing

have you checked all your tie rod ends? and every single one of your bushes?
raidus arm mushroom and slotted bushes?
panhard bushes?

it's usually a flagged bush (remember to check the rear aswel)

There is a clunk coming from the drivers footwell, so I'm assuming the radius rod rear bush is stuffed. I've checked the chassis where the steering box mounts as I heard they crack in the early trucks but mine isn't cracked. The previous owner has fitted a new steering bush, new bearings a few years ago, and a string of other work to the truck (i'm assuming trying to cure the shake)

Call Nizbits
http://www.nizzbits.com.au/
and get new body mounts....
a pain in the ass job, but stops the clunks and groans



hope this helps