Taslucas's TB42 Ti

[taslucas]

mate, i feel for ya! i cant offer any advice but i can offer my condolences. this thing has been going on for you ages hey! i hope you get it fixed soon bud.

Thanks mate, I hope your out the back doing a voodoo dance or something for me lol!

tappin it

[ripper]

I thought it would have to be temperature related as nothing else changes while driving.

I'm not so sure. Getting up to operating temp only takes about 10 min. These electronic boxes really can be temperamental.
Have you got a new error code since the temp sensor went in, to narrow down which circuit is the problem?

[taslucas]

I'm not so sure. Getting up to operating temp only takes about 10 min. These electronic boxes really can be temperamental.
Have you got a new error code since the temp sensor went in, to narrow down which circuit is the problem?

Yeah that's the thing though, I drive for about 15-20 minutes before I yet to the first 100 km/h straight. So the box should be up to operating temp. Get onto the straight, TC locks up, revs drop to around 1800rpm and all works like it should. Then after a bit more windy roads I get onto the highway, get up to 90 and the damn TC locks and unlocks rapidly......

As I've said, the most puzzling thing is if I'm parked near the hwy and start up and get straight onto the hwy I can sit on 90/100/110 for over an hour with all working fine but as soon as I stop for 5 minutes and go again, the problem appears ad soon as I get to 90.......


tappin it

[taslucas]

I'm not so sure. Getting up to operating temp only takes about 10 min. These electronic boxes really can be temperamental.
Have you got a new error code since the temp sensor went in, to narrow down which circuit is the problem?

Just checked the fault codes again, it's the same code, which is : "inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or the control unit is damaged"

But I've got no idea how to check/fix any of these!

tappin it

[ripper]

Lucas, fixing this is going to be a real pain.

Do you have a copy of Nissan's workshop manual?

Do you have good skills with a multi meter, or a helpful auto electrician?

I've just been looking at which pages of the manual you're going to need, and it looks ugly already.

[taslucas]

Lucas, fixing this is going to be a real pain.

Do you have a copy of Nissan's workshop manual?

Do you have good skills with a multi meter, or a helpful auto electrician?

I've just been looking at which pages of the manual you're going to need, and it looks ugly already.

Lol, yeah it's been a pain already!

I got some instructions from wholesale autos on how to test the tcu with a multimeter but I'm not very confident at all in doing it. I also don't have much confidence in the auto electricians around here.

tappin it

[taslucas]

Are you talking about the manual that can be downloaded from this site?

tappin it

[ripper]

Lol, yeah it's been a pain already!

I was thinking that as I wrote it, but now it's going to take lots of testing, where as the shop's approach seems to have been 'throw money at it and hope for the best'.

I got some instructions from wholesale autos on how to test the tcu with a multimeter but I'm not very confident at all in doing it. I also don't have much confidence in the auto electricians around here.

tappin it

I ended up working out what was wrong with mine myself, when the automatic shop hadn't been able to, and the auto elect. said he couldn't do any more than what the auto shop could.

To sort this out you're going to need someone with multimeter skills. Is there and electrician (a domestic or industrial one I mean) in your area who can think outside the box? Some just shut down as soon as you mention anything to do with DC wiring.

Are you talking about the manual that can be downloaded from this site?

tappin it

Yes, that one, or a paper copy of it.

[taslucas]

I was thinking that as I wrote it, but now it's going to take lots of testing, where as the shop's approach seems to have been 'throw money at it and hope for the best'.

Not really. Everyone I have asked (including wholesale autos) has said
that it must be the TC, the tps or the temp sensor. So I have methodically changed those things one at a time. Another thing is that when the secondhand temp sensor was fitted, the problem went away instantly and completely for 6 weeks.....

I will go to all the auto electricians around here and have a good chat to see if any of them are willing to have a go....


tappin it

[ripper]

Not really. Everyone I have asked (including wholesale autos) has said
that it must be the TC, the tps or the temp sensor.

But your error code is saying
"inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or the control unit is damaged"

Why weren't those eliminated first?