brucemacca (9th April 2012)
Wild98,
Don't take this the wrong way mate, but seriously, *extractors on a diesel turbo charged engine* ? Clearly, you don't know too much about diesels and turbo charging, good thing you've come here to learn a bit.
I've worked with giant size diesel engine for 30 years, and despite coming across some very interesting systems like two stroke, scavenger blowing, three stroke and four stroke, tubo charged and super charged ect, ect, I'd never ever come across any fitted with extractors.
A diesel engine, especially one fitted with a turbo charger does not need extractors, the turbo does a far better job then they ever could, the turbo also can negate the need for a muffler, as I've done with my 2.8 and it's straight thru exhaust system of 2 1/2".
IMHO, one of the best and easiest mods you can do for your diesel, (especially if turbo'd) is to increase the size of your exhaust, ditch the muffler.(though depends on your state, whether you get away with it, I'm in W.A. and mine passed over the pits no probs)
There is a debate on size of pipes, specialists have told me 2 1/2" is more then adequate, others claim 3" is better, I'm not making any claims as to who is correct, suffice to say, mine runs bloody good enough for me.
I read ana rticle on the web, dealing with this issue, and the *experts* claim such exhausts should only be larger diameter for the first half after the turbo, then reduce for the remainder, apparently it's got something to do with the hot gases needing extra room to flow quickly, then when they cool down they reduce, thus needing less room in the smaller diametre pipe, ensuring a good flow to clear the pipe.
I admit, I've never seen mention of this anywhere, only in the engineering papers, so it would appear the 4WD crowd are unawares of the principles of flowing gases.
Owing the humble 2.8 and driving it with maximum output and minimum fuel useage and minimum SMOKE, being emitted, requires some finess, don't choke the engine, by stomping heavily on the throttle and flooding the engine with diesel that it can't burn, this is a No, No, and wastes expensive fuel, contaminates your sump oil, pollutes the roadways and gets up the nose of your fellow motorists.
Go gently on the Go peddle, only allow enough diesel to increase the revs, as the revs increase, then add on the Go peddle, the engine breathes much easier and actually burns all the diesel your pumping in and gives good power in return.
On my truck, it's neccessary to change the oil every 5,000 K's, even though I've fitted a KLEENOIL bypass filter, though it does stay cleaner longer then it did before.
Watch your radiator additive, make sure it's the proper additive, as using the wrong stuff, will destroy your head,(not kidding with this either) the old green stuff is the WRONG stuff. If you've got the wrong stuff in, flush it out THOROUGHLY, it does NOT mix with the proper stuff and will cause you no end of problems.
Course if you leave the maintenance to your Nissan dealer, you shouldn't have any of these probs, or if you don't intend to keep your Patrol longer then a few years or so, they shouldn't bother you either.
Best of lck mate.
Itchyvet, could you let me know what coolant you recommend as im about to do a service on mine
Luf, give me until tomorrow, getting a four core radiator put in my patrol then, and I'll ask my mechanic the name of the coolant he's using, pass it on to you then.What I do know, is the coolant is a ORGANIC derived, whereas the green stuff is NON ORGANIC, apparently the ORGANIC stuff is supposed to have milder effects on the aluminium components and doesn't cause as much corrosion as the non organic stuff does.
If you buy it direct from Nissan, they sell it already diluted ready to pour straight in, though I do know you can also get it from auto shops, BUT it must be on the label that it's ORGANIC.
My Trol is a 98 model, and parts are getting on a bit now, I reckon all 98 Models, if they haven't yet, should seriously consider changing out their radiator.
Mine passed a flow test without problems, indicating insides were good, but after having a head replaced/6 exhaust valves/head gasket/water pump/thermostat/radiator hoses/radiator cap/overflow tank/header tank, the flamin thing had over heating probs coming back from my last trip.
Cruising on 100 K's towing CT'lr with kayak on roof, no probs until it rained, then the temp guage started to creep up, (weird) rain stopped, temp settled back down, this happened a few times, not happy Jan.
Spoke with my mechanic who agreed only thing could be fault is radiator *externaly*. As if you touch it, bits crumble and fall off easily, it's so weakened and corroded, so guess the fins are not doing what they're supposed to.
Am mightily pissed off with cooling probs on the Patrol, so opted for the FOUR CORE COPPER radiator they put in the Brunswick diesel modifications with their V8's, surely that'll solve the problem once and for all.
Hi lufkin,
As promised, the coolant being used in myPatrol is a POWERUP product called Koolmax 50.
Info I received, advises me it's a localy produced product which originaly started life as ULTRAFLUSH.
I don't know if it can be purchased over the counter, enquiries at auto retailers should resolve that.
I know it's not much, but best I could dig up.
I also discovered, my mechanic only uses KENDAL oils directly imported direct from the U.S. again another product not seen on retailers shelves.
lufkin (14th April 2012)
cheers itchyvet
Theres only one thing tougher than my truck............. YES DEAR GOING TO DO THE LAWNS NOW
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries,can and do kill people and damage property
Definitely pulls air DOWN through the scoop and intercooler on ours. Checked it today.
Dave
99 GU 2.8 TD
Brisvegas, QLD