OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 19 of 52 FirstFirst ... 1718192021 ... LastLast
Results 181 to 190 of 517

Thread: Blocking the EGR Valve

  1. #181
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    18
    Thanks
    3
    Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That all looks much easier to get at than on the 3.0L CRD!

    I don't recall seeing a butterfly valve on the intercooler on the 3L. Is there one, and should I have removed it?

    Also, I have changed the ASE boost control valve that I had fitted; for a Dawes valve because the adjustments on the ASE one were too unpredictable. However I have os wound right in now and my boost is sitting around 13-14 max, and I am still getting EGTs over 600 when I tow up hills or into headwind at >100km/h. What's my next step to get a little more boost and hopefully lower my EGT a bit? Will an after market intercooler help here?

    Harry
    2008 GU Patrol 3L CRD. 2" lift, winch and bar, Hella HIDs, Rhino Racks, Diesel Gas, HF and UHF, EGR block and 2.5" mandrel exhaust. Autron EGT and boost gauge, Scangauge II.

  2. #182
    Advanced jaseb13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    37
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    this is a great read , thanks to everyones input..seems ive got a busy weekend coming up..

  3. #183
    Hardcore
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    central coast nsw
    Posts
    2,011
    Thanks
    625
    Thanked 513 Times in 388 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by YNOT View Post
    To be honest I'm not sure either, I don't know any one who's tried it.
    I don't think there would be much price difference between 2 stroke oil and proper upper cylinder lubricant, if that is the case then stick with the upper cylinder lube that's already proven.

    Tony
    Use upper cyl lube buddy.
    I've used just about all of em over the years and swear by Morreys for this.
    Don't ever use the fuel doctor, my 97 lancer dropped fuel acconmy by at least 20% every time I tried it, 3 tanks and in the bin with that.
    One even cause engine ping big time and Morreys cured that the next tank, so when on a good thing.
    Sorry can't remember name of ping one but it was on the shelf last time I looked in s/cheap as a kit-drip bottle and oil, fuel saver maybe!
    Tried Penrite one also, seamed ok but doesn't have cleaning additives in it, I rang penrite tech to confirm this.
    Its alot cheaper than Morreys but I personally like having cleaner fuel system so recon it's worth the extra $.
    Actually had in-depth conversation with Penrite tech and told him I'd buy their product over Morreys if it cleaned also, as I swear buy their engine oil. My old MQ L2.8 ran for years on Penrite with stuffed rings, but just kept on going and was the only oil that slowed oil consumption. and I use it in my Gtr and when I reco Gtr engine the mechanic commented to me how good the bearings were and He agreed Penrite oil was the reason.
    Any way, not to mention time saved on maintance.
    The junk fuel we have to put up with was regularly fowling injectors on Lancer and my Gtr, causing alot of work.
    I can now go along time before I worry about dirty injectors etc.
    Now I think about it, a little less valve train noise also.
    If you decide to use 2St oil I'd use outboard oil as it's far superior to the others, it's engineered better and larger outboard motors are very expensive to repair/replace, not to mention human life.
    Hope this helps

  4. #184
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Slovakia
    Posts
    26
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    wery cool thread i will try it as soon as possible

  5. #185
    Expert BearGUST's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    370
    Thanks
    36
    Thanked 75 Times in 62 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by NZDaz View Post
    I have disconnected my battery again to try and reset the ECU and also give it a good charge. In the mean time I decided to have a wee look inside the inlet to see if the black crud was through it as well...

    Looks like I will be pulling it right out to give it a good clean.
    Are those two butterfly's the ones you recommend removing as well?
    I'm going through this process at the moment-fitting boost & EGT gauges, EGR blank, Dawes valve, manual boost tap.

    As per the question above, what is the go with these butterflies on the ZD30? There seems to be conflicting info on whether to remove them... I assume the smaller on closes off as the EGR is opened, what does the larger one do? Do both get removed?

  6. #186
    Expert Chaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    228
    Thanks
    8
    Thanked 98 Times in 64 Posts
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BearGUST View Post
    I'm going through this process at the moment-fitting boost & EGT gauges, EGR blank, Dawes valve, manual boost tap.

    As per the question above, what is the go with these butterflies on the ZD30? There seems to be conflicting info on whether to remove them... I assume the smaller on closes off as the EGR is opened, what does the larger one do? Do both get removed?
    BearGUST,

    You don’t need to remove those butterfly valves on a ZD30 Patrol. You do on a 4.2 and 2.8 with EGR, but not a ZD30 because it has a variable turbo.

    The smaller one is the swirl control valve which opens above 1250rpm to include the other 4 intake ports and the larger valve closes when you shut the engine down to reduce vibration on shutdown.

  7. #187
    Expert BearGUST's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    370
    Thanks
    36
    Thanked 75 Times in 62 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    So normally the ECU changes boost level to offset the EGR levels in the chamber?

  8. #188
    Expert Chaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    228
    Thanks
    8
    Thanked 98 Times in 64 Posts
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BearGUST View Post
    So normally the ECU changes boost level to offset the EGR levels in the chamber?
    Yes. The ECU controls the vacuum solenoid which in turn controls the variable turbo to give optimum boost levels to allow EGR to flow. A conventional turbo can’t be controlled electrically, so the only way the ECU has control, is to close a butterfly valve to reduce boost and allow EGR to flow.

    Under normal conditions the ECU can reduce the VNT to increase boost which will increase backpressure between the engine and turbo and push more exhaust gas into the EGR valve, but for maximum EGR flow the ECU needs to reduce boost to allow more EGR into the inlet manifold. When this happens, the exhaust temperatures skyrocket because you’re going to be under load with large amounts of EGR and less cool oxygen entering the intake system.

    This is why bypassing the ECU boost control solenoid and blocking the EGR improves performance and reduces EGT’s so much.
    Last edited by Chaz; 8th March 2012 at 11:35 AM.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Chaz For This Useful Post:

    BearGUST (9th March 2012)

  10. #189
    Expert BearGUST's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    370
    Thanks
    36
    Thanked 75 Times in 62 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks Chaz, I just wanted to make sure how It all works before I do the mods.


    ---
    I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?3jgo4x
    GUIII ZD30 Manual Wagon, OME 2" lift, 33" BFG AT's, Snorkel, Chip, 3" Redback Exh, Dual Batts, etc.
    KEEP OUR TRACKS LITTER FREE!

  11. #190
    Advanced myzathreeby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Palmwoods QLD
    Posts
    45
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 30 Times in 9 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Set aside a couple of hours to try and block off the EGR.
    Took off all the peripheral bits first and located the flange.
    I don't know if anyone else has encountered this, but there is a moulded metal heat shield/shroud fitted over the EGR flange on the GUIII 3.0 litre turbo
    There are 4 bolts holding it place. but the bloody thing is totally jambed in between the flange and the manifold, it will need a lot more stripping down to get it out. I couldn't even get a grinder in to cut a piece out. The shroud is preventing access to the flange nuts.
    So ended putting it all back.
    Definitely will have another go, but will need more time.
    I noticed when I took off the rubber tubes to the turbo, the insides were black and oily. Not really a good thing when it is meant to be a fresh air intake.

Page 19 of 52 FirstFirst ... 1718192021 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •