Learn from others mistakes

[GRA.GU]

Gooday Mitchelljames, I've done most of the big trips to which we aspire and the one piece of advice I'd offer is try to keep your weight down. The more weight you add the less capable you make the vehicle.
If you're talking outback touring, a standard vehicle will do that. In fact most outback 4bys probably have only a bull bar and an extra spare wheel added. I've heard of many Patrols breaking the rear spring towers, and a friend with whom I was doing the Canning a few years ago did exactly that. It's my belief that many fall into the trap of overloading and then fitting heavier duty springs to compensate. On severely corrugated roads the springs, instead of absorbing some of the wheels upward movement and feeding the forces gently to the body, hammer against the far higher inertia of the overly heavy truck, so stressing the mounts beyond their design criteria.

Tyre size is another area where I think people make mistakes when modifying for touring. Vehicles that live in the outback have usually got standard wheels and tyres - often 235x85x16. These sizes are most unfashionable in city vehicles, but fashion apart, they work! And you can get spares if you tear a sidewall in the outback. I've done a number of desert crossings in my former Troopcarrier with that size tyre and have towed wider tyred vehicles out of sand bogs, and I've never seen it demonstrated that wider tyres have an advantage, provided pressures are adjusted. On the road the wider ones have an advantage, but off road touring...?

If you stick to comparatively standard sizes you'll also find that your gear ratios are matched to your engine's output in the manner that the designer had in mind. [not all designers are stupid, LOL] and so you'll get better climbing ability, better fuel economy and hence better range. Another benefit of standard sizes is the weight advantage it brings - it all adds up, and for the Patrol wagon you only need about 600kg over its empty standard weight and you've exceeded the GVM. If you haven't already weighed yours it's a worthwhile exercise. Fill your fuel tanks beforehand, and then do some calculations when you get home as to the extra water, food, camping gear, tools, etc that you'd take on an extended tour and you'll quickly realize it becomes a question as to what weight you can shed rather than what extra to take. I don't even fit driving lights to mine as I rarely drive at night when touring. Also, re lockers, you'll do the Telegraph Track or the Canning, or almost anywhere without them.

OK so my recommendation for a good long distance tourer is that you try to keep it light and wherever possible keep it standard. Having said that a 2inch lift and good quality shocks, dual batteries, a winch if like me you travel solo a lot, and a set of drawers [despite their weight] to try and keep things in their place. On mine I also run roof bars with an awning and shovel as well as the option of an extra spare wheel and MaxTrax.

On the CRD a catch can, scan gauge and EGT gauge are also desirable, but I'm yet to fit the EGR block as there seems to be some debate as to whether it's necessary on this motor. And with the improved technology of the turbos and oils, I don't think anyone worries about a turbo timer these days. However, any common rail motor is susceptible to fuel contamination and so I carry a Mr. Funnel for when I'm suspicious of the supply or filling from jerries.

Whatever you do you'll have fun, so go ahead and enjoy yourself.
Graeme.
[Hadn't seen your post, Plasnart, prior to doing mine. Fortunately, we seem to basically agree. LOL]