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Thread: Installing Pyro and Boost gauges in a GU

  1. #121
    Expert Leighw85's Avatar
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    I'm guessing this is the issue???
    How hard is it to get the intercooler of to fix it.
    That hose has to go on that pipe where it has cracked of???
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    Expert Chaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leighw85 View Post
    I'm guessing this is the issue???
    How hard is it to get the intercooler of to fix it.
    That hose has to go on that pipe where it has cracked of???
    Yep, thats it!

    Get yourself some new rubber tube and replace the whole length. Removing the cooler is easy enough. Just undo the big hose clamps at the cooler, unplug the MAP sensor and undo the 4 bolts holding it down.

    Unfortunately this is a bad design. It would be better if the steel tube was bent over toward the turbo rather than having a sharp bend at the connection, but you may still be able to replace the hose with a pair of long nose pliers.

    Good luck,
    Chaz

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    Leighw85 (31st October 2011)

  4. #123
    Expert Leighw85's Avatar
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    Hey mate.
    All fixed so stoked hey. managed to get the old hose back on tonight without taking the intercooler of.
    I will replace all the hoses this weekend as all of them look a little dodgy.

    I am getting a few more boost spikes than i was before when i just took it for a little drive. Just short sharp spurts up to about 15psi.
    Im not sure if thats because i removed and cleaned the Dawes valve, and now it needs resetting. Any ideas?

    Needle valve next on the list for sure

    Mate i cant thank you enough for all you help.
    Legend

  5. #124
    Expert Chaz's Avatar
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    No problem Leigh,

    Boost spikes are normal, but I wouldn’t worry about 15psi. It may be better if you set the Dawes valve to run at 14 – 15psi, even if it spikes to 17. Still much better that not having a Dawes with spikes above 20psi.

    Still much better with the needle valve fitted because you’ll be able to slow down and reduce the spike. You’ll be an expert boost control tuner before you know it.

    Cheers,

  6. #125
    Expert Leighw85's Avatar
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    OK mate no worries, ill get my Dawes set up to about 14-15psi
    What should my boost gauge roughly sit at when im doing 100km/h down the highway sitting on 2000rpm. Im getting about 11-12 psi. Is that to high?

    Oh and another one of those questions. Is this my MAF sensor??? i got some contact cleaner. How do i clean it? And how often?

  7. #126
    How's the serenity boots's Avatar
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    That is your boost sensor . the maf sensor is in the air intake just near the air filter housing . two torque screw head screws holding it in place.
    research the thread on this forum , all the info is there and photos to guide you .
    The price of excellence is dicipline , the cost of mediocrity is dissapointment .

  8. #127
    How's the serenity boots's Avatar
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    engine and drivetrain section of the forum - checking and cleaning maf sensor by YNOT .
    The price of excellence is dicipline , the cost of mediocrity is dissapointment .

  9. #128
    Expert Chaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leighw85 View Post
    OK mate no worries, ill get my Dawes set up to about 14-15psi
    What should my boost gauge roughly sit at when im doing 100km/h down the highway sitting on 2000rpm. Im getting about 11-12 psi. Is that to high?
    Leigh,

    Your car must be an auto. I’m constantly sitting on 14psi at 100km/h and 2000rpm with mine. If I accelerate a bit it hits 15psi, but won’t go past that. Around town, I rarely pass 10psi, but that’s because I have 2 Dawes valves fitted.

    15psi max isn’t too high at all. In fact it’s probably lower than it needs to be, but being constantly there, you’ll find you’re EGT’s run lower. The factory boost often goes into the low 20’s, but fluctuates a lot and temps constantly rise and fall.

    The main reason that I recommend 15psi is that some cars will go into limp mode if they go above that below 3000rpm for more than a few seconds, particularly with a cold engine.

  10. #129
    Expert Leighw85's Avatar
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    cheers Chaz. ill definately set it up to 15psi then

    Before i buy my Needle valve, i have a question. So the needle valve will give me boost when i go over 100km/h and over 2000rpm?
    as soon as i hit 2100-2200rpm at the moment i get no boost at all. which makes the EGT's rise alot.
    ideally i would like to sit my cruise control on 110km/h and not have to worry about the EGT's. But at the moment max is 100km/h before i lose boost

  11. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leighw85 View Post
    cheers Chaz. ill definately set it up to 15psi then

    Before i buy my Needle valve, i have a question. So the needle valve will give me boost when i go over 100km/h and over 2000rpm?
    as soon as i hit 2100-2200rpm at the moment i get no boost at all. which makes the EGT's rise alot.
    ideally i would like to sit my cruise control on 110km/h and not have to worry about the EGT's. But at the moment max is 100km/h before i lose boost
    Leigh,

    No, the needle valve won’t give you boost when you go over 100km/h and over 2000rpm, but it will allow you to control your spool rate so that you can bypass the ECU boost control solenoid, which will give you constant boost when you go over 100km/h, without dropping off when the ECU wants to increase EGR.

    Now that you have fixed the broken hose issue that you had, try to do what I suggested previously and run the hose that was broken straight into the top of the Dawes valve. If you do it, just be careful not to accelerate too aggressively because your spoolup will be very fast, but then drive up to 100km/h and you should have 15psi all the time and your EGT’s will be much lower.

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