distributor timing very retarded, or choke stuck partly on?
distributor timing very retarded, or choke stuck partly on?
Thanks guys,
what's about the head gasket? Apparently is slight worn and would need to be changed. High consumption and hot engine are signs of worn gasket? (oil is not that dirty and engine not burning oil).
Radiator is clean and the fan is a proper one. 'll check the distributor over the week-end.
Head gasket seems unlikely to me, unless it's burning coolant and/or there's oil in your cooling system and/or there's coolant in your oilsystem.. Head gasket's main task is, by my knowledge, to prevent leaking between outlet gas, coolant and oil.
I gave it some thought again and my next guess would be your waterpump or dynamo. There's a chance that, with heating up, some friction arises between one of them pulleys and the device driven by it. Also bad bearings could cause one of those devices to run very heavily. That would certainly explain the overheating (the engine has to constantly work harder) as well as it's high fuel usage. It would also cause faster wearing of the belts driving them.
Last edited by NoBody; 18th October 2011 at 09:18 AM.
vespasprint150 (21st March 2012)
Dont touch the timing if its running fine
The fan it self could be correct , but the fan clutch hub itself could be stuffed and not doin its job
Id get the fan clutch hub checked, maybe replaced
Then or either get the radiator rodded out (entails a proper clean by a specialist ,not by a hose)
Your radiator cooling tubes could be blocked (common issue) or the cooling fins themselves could be cactus, entailing anew radiator
Most of the GQ and onwards radiators are a very thin alloy core radiator and are suseptable to blockage
IMHO i doubt the massive high mileage has to do with a cooling issue
A massive cooling issue usually results in a cracked head/head gasket issue and breaking down on the roadside, not high fuel consumption
Last edited by MQ MAD; 22nd October 2011 at 07:14 PM.
vespasprint150 (21st March 2012)
Replace the thermostat with a lower temp rating
Replace radiator with a hevy duty radiator 2inch thick(50mm)triple core copper/brass or a
3inch thick aussie desert cooler quad core
vespasprint150 (21st March 2012)
Hi there,
"winter" is coming up even here in bangladesh: replaced the fan clutch hub and replaced the radiator tube (the big black one) and the car seems now to be running better. Let's see whats happens when the hot seasons will come back.
Hi,
The 4.2 carby 1994 is still overheating... Work done so far:
- new water pump,
- gauge check
- head gasket changed
- cluch fan checked
Next steps? Get rid of the radiator thermostat? Cry?
Tom
Ha you done what MQ MAD Had suggested and had the radiator rodded out (entails a proper clean by a specialist ,not by a hose)?
That's what I would do first.
I have problems with mine running hot on hot days when stop starting and that is due 2 one of the bottom cores been damaged and was blocked by the radiator specialist .
Cheers
Todd
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
vespasprint150 (21st March 2012)
Do not get rid of the thermostat. This will cause more problems than fix, it is needed to cool the engine effectively because it by-passes through the small outlet at the top of the housing until the engine reaches operating temp. I have fitted an aftermarket alloy radiator and twin oil coolers, no probs with overheating now.
'93 GQ, TB42e, 4" lift, 33's and some dints!!!
Done, done, done.
Temp goes down as soon as I switch off the air-con.
Looked at new radiator available here in Bangladesh and they all look the same as the one it is in right now (and it is 4 years old only).
Could someone suggest a heavy duity radiator that I could ship in? Who sells (and can ship internationally) aftermarket radiators, triple or quad core?
Alternatively, would a more performing fan & blades do?
Few pictures of the radiator, fan blade and air/con condenser.