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Thread: Locking Hubs

  1. #11
    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by -ET 4wd- View Post
    Auto locking hubs will also not work in reverse unless locked with your wheel brace........trap for young players!

    Steve.
    Uuummm... unless I misinterpret your post that is not correct cobber.

    Well, for Nissan Factory 'Auto' Hubs anyway. They work just fine in 'Auto' if you are in 4WD High or Low and using reverse gear.

    Where some confusion comes in is that to ensure the Auto Hubs 'automatically unlock' after 4WD is deselected the vehicle should be driven a car length or two in the 'reverse direction'.

    IE if you were driving forward then you deselect 4WD and drive in reverse OR if you were driving in reverse (IE backing out of a mudhole or whatever) then you deselect 4WD and drive forward a car length or two.
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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by the evil twin View Post
    Uuummm... unless I misinterpret your post that is not correct cobber.

    Well, for Nissan Factory 'Auto' Hubs anyway. They work just fine in 'Auto' if you are in 4WD High or Low and using reverse gear.

    Where some confusion comes in is that to ensure the Auto Hubs 'automatically unlock' after 4WD is deselected the vehicle should be driven a car length or two in the 'reverse direction'.

    IE if you were driving forward then you deselect 4WD and drive in reverse OR if you were driving in reverse (IE backing out of a mudhole or whatever) then you deselect 4WD and drive forward a car length or two.
    Agree with ET on this one, that's how my factory auto hubs worked before I took the auto locking mechanism out.
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  4. #13
    Advanced Gerrit Loubser's Avatar
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    I agree with the two previous posters: autohubs are definitely able to transfer drive torque in the forward and reverse directions.

    When changing drive direction, the autohubs do disengage and re-engage, though (you will hear them clicking as this happens). I believe this to be the reason for the manual "lock" position on the autohub selector: In the rough it is possible that the direction of torque experienced by the autohub can vary (sometimes quite rapidly) as wheels loose and regain traction. This leads to high shock loads inside the autohubs as they cam out and in in response. Selecting the "lock" position prevents this by ensuring the autohubs remain engaged.

    My policy is to only leave the autohubs on auto for normal tar and dirt road driving. Anything more hectic sees the wheel brace come out and "lock" selected on the autohubs.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerrit Loubser View Post

    ........ My policy is to only leave the autohubs on auto for normal tar and dirt road driving. Anything more hectic sees the wheel brace come out and "lock" selected on the autohubs.
    Pls excuse the snip.

    X2. That is exactly the right way to operate a vehicle with 'auto' hubs IMHO.

    Not that you need them on tar but I know what you mean...
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    quick question, i have two little locks on the front one inside either wheel, they say lock on one side and free on the other, is this the manual lock?
    also inside the car is a switch with diff lock on or off, is this another lock, or is it part of the two locks at the front,
    the car is a 89 gq/maverick

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Random View Post
    quick question, i have two little locks on the front one inside either wheel, they say lock on one side and free on the other, is this the manual lock?
    also inside the car is a switch with diff lock on or off, is this another lock, or is it part of the two locks at the front,
    the car is a 89 gq/maverick

    Oh lucky you!!!! Your on a winner there mate.

    You have Manual hubs by the sounds of it....Can you turn them by hand from Free to Lock and back with your fingers? then they are manuals and a great thing.

    Your inside switch indicated that you have a Factory Diff Lock in the rear Diff. you do not have an LSD but rather the Vacuum diff lock that nissan offered as an option. YOur a lucky bugger. You will not need an ARB Air locker in the back. you have a factory fitted jobby. DO NOT press that switch on Bitumen.
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  8. #17
    Expert NewDan's Avatar
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    Hi Guys, Just to clarify as im new to this and also a bit confused... mine also have an Auto/lock position on them... so all i need to do is engage 4wd ( ie: either 4H or 4L) from inside and start driving and the hubs will automatically lock in ? and as for the factory rear locker just move the switch to on when required and its done?

  9. #18
    Advanced -ET 4wd-'s Avatar
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    OK , im pretty sure they didnt work in reverse as they are on a 'rachet' style thing??...well mine didnt, so i junked them and went to manuals!
    As for yours NewDan, if they have 'Auto' and 'Lock' on the hub with a bolt in the middle then they are auto hubs.
    If you are doin anything a bit more hardcore than drivin along a dirt road then you should turn them to 'lock' with ya wheel brace.
    Only really use ya diff lock when ya realise the back wheels have lost traction, only use it for as long as ya need to then turn it off to make sure you dont accidently leave it on which can cause the diff and the axles undue stress if you try to change direction.
    Your a lucky man havin a rig with a factory difflock, they are very sought after and damn near bulletproof,

    Have fun mate,

    Steve.

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  11. #19
    Expert NewDan's Avatar
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    Many thanks for that Steve, and yeah cool to have the diff lock..... didn't know it came with it till I took it for its first test drive so you can imagine the smile that came on my face during the first test drive when my missus pointed to the switch and said " what does diff lock mean" lol.
    Dan

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    Never heard of manual hubs being a bad thing

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