GQ 4.2 1991 Transmission problem´s

[Nordic]

Hi guys,

i just bought yesteday my first GQ and everything was without any problems. Tukk it for a testdrive, all ok! I tukk it home about 80k´s and today also for another 50k´s without any probs.

Now on the way back home, the transmission ist not shifting in 3rd or 4th gear. just 1+2 and reserve.
It seems that there is also a slight rattle (metal) out of the gearbox when shifting down (red light), but not sure if this out of the trans?

Oil level is ok, i disconect the plug of the wiring harness to the inhibitor switch and trans went into 3rd gear.

I tried to carry out the ECU diganostic check, but this wont work, maybe wrong way or just to stupid!?!

Can anyone help me out there or have a idea about this problem? How is the correct procedure for the diagnsotic check?

There are 400k ont the clock but i have a recipe for a complete trans rebuilding at 220k over 5K.


Thanks and cheers

Nordic

[NissanGQ4.2]

Feel your pain mate, I had the same problem, only had 1st 2nd and reverse. Currently rebuilding mine at the moment, I don't know what my exact problem was, but I found a broken wire on my valve body ( not sure what the wire is for at the moment ), also some of the metal plates in one of the clutches wear worn 2 buggery ( think its third gear ).
My rebuild thread can be found here: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...earbox+rebuild

Hope you get it sorted mate

[Finly Owner]

Hi guys,

i just bought yesteday my first GQ and everything was without any problems. Tukk it for a testdrive, all ok! I tukk it home about 80k´s and today also for another 50k´s without any probs.

Now on the way back home, the transmission ist not shifting in 3rd or 4th gear. just 1+2 and reserve.
It seems that there is also a slight rattle (metal) out of the gearbox when shifting down (red light), but not sure if this out of the trans?

Oil level is ok, i disconect the plug of the wiring harness to the inhibitor switch and trans went into 3rd gear.

I tried to carry out the ECU diganostic check, but this wont work, maybe wrong way or just to stupid!?!

Can anyone help me out there or have a idea about this problem? How is the correct procedure for the diagnsotic check?

There are 400k ont the clock but i have a recipe for a complete trans rebuilding at 220k over 5K.


Thanks and cheers

Nordic

If you bought it from a dealer take it back under warranty.

Tim

[Nordic]

bought from private!

I just carried out the TCU self test, and the power light dosent go off, it stay´s on. Looks like there is maybe a electrical malfunction with one of these sensors.

Does any one have a testplan to check the inhibitor switch,kick-down switch,O/D switch and Throttel position sensor? Also can i check the TCU?

Cheers
Nordic

[Nordic]

By the way, if it com to the worst case i need to rebuild the transmission, anyone have a spare one or know´s where i can get the rebuilding for a good price? Maybe it´s just the valve body or brake band!?!

Thx
Nordic

[Hawk82]

Hope u get it fixed mate!!
Can´t give any useful tips though,
maybe just the one: get a manual car

cheers

Ivo

[Yendor]

Have you checked the fuses?, from memory there are 2 that control the auto.

[Nordic]

Hi,

yes Yender, i allready checked the fuses on the driver side under the dashboard. All Ok.

I removed the oil pan today just to see if something wrong there, i drained about 8 Liter ATF, the fluid is still red but a bit more dark, it´s not smelling burnt.
There is a lot of metal stuff at the pan magnet.
I also got the self diagnoses now, it seems to be fault 6,7 and 10 because this are longer flashes than the other ones.

Any ideas at all?

Cheers
Nordic

[taslucas]

Hi mate,
What self diagnostic instructions are you following?
I have an aftermarket book (haynes i think) and it gives detailed instructions on how to do the self diagnostic check and also details all the codes and what they mean. Dont have the book with me atm as its in the car which is in the shop getting some auto box attention!
When i checked with the self diagnostic it picked the problem correctly.
But metal stuff in the pan magnet is a fairly bad sign id say.
My mechanic (auto specialist) said to me at worst case senerio a full rebuild would be around $2500. (luckily i only needed torque converter $1300)
Goodluck mate

[Nordic]

The metal is like a kind of silt, no bigger metal particle. It´s about 5mm high at the magnet. I know it from Volkswagen ;-) a good amount of metal silt seems to be normal. So i´m not sure...even i dont know how long ago the last trans service was.

I did the self test out of the Patrol manual, with the A/T Power light.

Cheers