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O.K. , many apologies agiain, but now the conversion is complete I figured I should finish the thread!
Unfortunately I didn't get any pics of the gas system removal (always the way when you get a bit exited!), however it is fairly straitforward as long as you make SURE the gas is turned off at the bottle and I also kept the filler assembly intact Also care is needed removing the tank as they are bloody heavy, especially if there is still gas in the tank, ideally try to empty the tank first. Once the tank is out it is just a case of removing all the lines, wiring and other parts like the converter.
Once the tank is out the new tank (I used a standard diesel tank) will bolt straight in, however the rear bolts are very tight beteen the tow bar (if you have one) and I just got away without removing it. I hooked up both the new tank and the old belly tank using a Pollak fuel swithing valve, however I haven't got it fully wired up and working as yet, so hopefully when it's working I will do a separate thread on the duel tanks.
Now it's simpy a case of stripping everything off the engine ready to be removed. This just takes time and plenty of zip-ties(and a few beers)!. I also labeled every wire that was disconnected to help with re-wiring with the new motor, which was very very helpfull.
Once the engine is ready to be taken out, it needs to be supported with the engine crane to remove the engine mounts, then lowered slightly to get to the top engine to bellhousing bolts as well as the botom bolts. Once they are removed it's ready to be prised apart from the bell housing and pulled forward and then out. Originally we tried to pull it out with the fan still on but found there was not enough clearance so it needs to come off.
Once the engine is out the bell housings can be eisily swapped over with the td42 bellhousing bolting straight up to the original gearbox! Too easy! Then the original clutch shift fork can be installed with new thrust bearing and it's worthwile putting on a new fork boot aswell and siliconing it at the same time. I found the old boot had been siliconed by me a while ago, however it had perished leaving a big split in it and allowing LOTS of water straight into the clutch resulting in the old clutch looking like something off the bottom of the ocean! Probalbly as a result of the last big Toolangi boghole I suspect.
P8290007.JPG
Old bellhousing to be swapped with td42 bellhousing
Now the new clutch can be installed onto the back of the new motor, however beforehand I decided to replace the rear main seal, seeing as it was apart and hopefully it won't have to be apart for a while to come. Once the rear main seal was replaced it was just a case of instaling the flywheel again making sure that the bolts are all correctly torqued. Then the clutch can be installed with a new spiggot bush, and it's ready to go in!
For some reason (Can't remember why), I had to use the engine mounts off the old motor. They are slightly different and I think the diesel ones didn't clear something somewhere! Umm my memory must be fading, anyway, once that was done the engine slid in very eisily and everything lined up apart from the last hole as AB mentioned, however after looseng the mounts from the block it was enough to jiggle it in. Also before I put the engine in I gave everything a good coat of UltraCopper to keep everything nice and water tight.
Now that the new motor is in the fun can begin, and not dissimialr to the removal, takes time, zip ties and more beer. The fuel filter assembly and vaccum resevior both mount in the same place as on a standard diesel GQ and already have the holes with captive nuts - too easy! However I lashed out and bought some genuine Nissan clips for the firewall for the fuel and vaccum lines at $11.00 each. A bit pricey for a plasitc clip but it makes it look original.
Mounting the intercooler was pretty straight forward once I figured out how it all went together. The brace that runs up and down below the bonnet catch needs to be removed, as well as the thermo fans, and I also had to move the can for the air-con. Once that was done the Safari Intercooler just has top and bottom brackes then a hole needs too be cut for the top hose. Also because I have a body lift the bottom hose was hitting the air-con pump, so I had to cut the bottom tube and use some rubber turbo ducting hose.
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