They actually do produce heat, but not as much as an incandescent would. Otherwise my light bar would have cooling fins on the back of it. And my LED downlights too.Originally Posted by threedogs
They actually do produce heat, but not as much as an incandescent would. Otherwise my light bar would have cooling fins on the back of it. And my LED downlights too.
Your both right... sort of... LED's don't produce heat but the electronics to drive them does (sometimes a little sometimes a lot) and they are normally co-located.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
Yes I was going to edit that to my OP but got the CBF's. Lol.
Thought I'd add to the rear light portfolio.
This set from Patro lA Part. easy install and effective. Brake lights work as well but couldn' make my foot reach that far from the camera.
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2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
Not a lot of heat either, I'd call it warmth. Lol. A lot of the cheaper ones can actually get to what I would call, very warm, though.
Incandescent lights are approximately 10% light, 90% heat, and the filaments burn at over 2000 degress celsius.
hi guys...
time for some advice please..
i have a 08 crd patrol and i got the working rear lights off from Ebay..
ok , but the problem i got is in the wiring... i cant find the factory loom that i keep hearing about,,
so, will i have to splice off from the lights in the bumper or from the towbar? will the existing wiring be able to handle the bumper lights and the towbar and the extra lights that i will add? i am also thinking of another set of lights on the roof rack.
but i am worried about the load on existing wiring.
i was thinking of running a new power line down to the back and run relays off from the positive wires for each set of lights.. ie relay for brake, parkers, indicators and reverse.
that would mean that the active wire ,for say, the brakes would activate the relay to turn on brake lights in the new lights...
if i did this, would the indicators blink at a different rate?,,
or
i just wire directly from the towbar wiring and replace all globes with led? less draw and less stress on the wiring ( and me,, lol )
cheers
The set I got from Patrol a part had led brake and tail lights, so no real increase in load. Factory loom should be plugged into the passenger side tail lights which are usually wired in. You may need to pick up drivers side indicator from the bumper bar.
IMO the existing wiring should handle it OK or there would be problems every time someone hooked up a caravan or whatever. The turn indicators would probably flash at a slightly different rate but should be ok. If you are going to put lights on the roof rack, I would suggest that you put a plug and socket in so the RR can be removed from the vehicle if you want. I even have my RR spots, I mean work lights on a plug and socket system.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
Malgreen (25th April 2015)
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Can you buy just the loom, globe holders and globes to fit into the existing blank rear body lights in the GU? I have had a look on ebay and patrolapart but can only find them as a package with lenses
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2010 GU, 2in lift, old man emu suspension, duellers, arb bullbar, dual batteries, safari snorkel, scangauge2, rhino rack platform, saving for more......
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