RB30 Facts, Figures and Helpful Hints

[CaptainNewman]

Hi RB30 crew. A quick trip report - just got back from the Simpson with the RB, Oodnadatta to Birdsville via the French Line and QAA Line. Despite the Bash being on (13,000 camped at Big Red apparently), it was pretty quiet in the desert and we basically saw 1 other convoy each day (probably because the Birdsville Track was closed due to rain).

Fuel - took 130L in the long range tank, plus 80L in plastic jerries on the roof, so plenty spare.

RB30 sipped - got 21L/100kms from Oodnadatta to Birdsville, 698kms total mostly in 4H. Tracks were fairly slippery from recent rain, but the French Line seemed pretty good condition. Speeds 70-90km/hr on the gravel, 15-40km/hr in the desert. Tires 22psi rear, 18psi front. Had the second spare behind the front seats, and tried to keep all the weight between the axles (total load ~350kg, probably 25kg spare tire, 90kg water, 25kg food, 20kg luggage, 30kg camping gear, 100kg fuel + firewood up top, 30kg drawers, 30kg spares + tools etc.) plus 2 people.

Fuel economy Adelaide > Oodnadatta and Birdsville > Home was 15-16L/100kms doing 100km/hr in 4th, 5th with some headwind at times, tires at highway pressure.

No real mechanical casualties apart from both inner mud guards coming *close* to falling off with the weight of all the mud from the Oodnadatta track (cable tie fix), plus the carby losing rev power when cold (likely the second stage butterfly sticking as described by Mudnut and others, I still need to wet/dry the barrels and fix this). A crack which I'd previously had welded at the base of the driver's A-pillar/windscreen must have opened up again, because we had a constant 'clicking' soundtrack on the drive home.

Had a great time and no trouble getting up any of the sand dunes.

... did have some trouble getting through ponded water at the base of Big Red...
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[mudnut]

Thanks for the write up, Cap. Great to see you again using the Dirty 30 above and beyond its intended purpose. From what research I can gather, the RB30 was released as a cheaper version for carrying kids and maybe for weekend away.

[Johnsdenm]

It sounds like you've gathered a wealth of knowledge on maintaining the RB30 engine! Your detailed instructions on checking the fuel return solenoid and the circuitry involved are really helpful for anyone troubleshooting similar issues. Thanks for sharing such valuable insights!

[mudnut]

My supposed "heavy duty" clutch is slipping when under really heavy use. It is only 20000 ks old and did slip once before, under the same circumstances. Up steep dunes in 4wd low.

[mudnut]

I recently bought another carby and carby kit. The bloke who runs the local dyno, fitted the kit. Unfortunately the auto choke was defunct, so I had to remove the heater spring and fit a manual choke. I already had the manual choke cable fitted, as the previous carby also had a dud auto choke. I will endeavour to take some pics of the modification. The same two components had failed on the new carby as the old one. The heater spring was open circuit, and the choke break diaphragm has a hole or split in it. I also used a ball bearing to block the choke break vacuum hose.

[CaptainNewman]

This is the Air Intake Pre-heat assembly fitted to a stock RB30S.

When the engine is cold, vacuum is applied to the diaphragm inside the silver unit on top of the air intake.

This unit has a small arm which operates a flap that closes the normal air intake and opens the "Stove Pipe".

The Stove pipe is attached to the metal shroud which collects hot air from around the exhaust manifold.

Vacuum pressure to the diaphragm is halted as the engine heats up, so the flap closes the stove pipe and opens the normal air intake.

The Pre-heat system must be operational for the vehicle to pass a roadworthy.

To prevent the pre-heat flap from opening during a trip where I am likely to encounter water crossings or dusty conditions, I take the normal hose off and stop up the holes with the two plugged pieces. (2nd picture).

Another simple way to block the hose is with an appropriately sized ball bearing.

As I live in a cooler climate, and have had to remove the heater grid positioned at the base of the carby (It had started to disintegrate and pieces were falling into the engine) For normal driving I keep the pre-heat system operational as it helps the engine warm up quickly to normal running temperature.

Attachment 54962

Hey RB30 crew - following on from this post by @mudnut, I'm after a photo of the metal shroud on the exhaust manifold, part of the pre-heat assembly which came stock.

My Patrol hasn't got one (must have been removed by the previous owner), and with the cold weather performance getting worse and worse as the years go on, I've finally decided to fab one myself.

I'd appreciate a few detailed photos showing what it looks like, especially how it's bolted on to the body.

I'm going to have a crack with 1100 aluminium sheeting, if that melts then I'll think of something else. Cheers !

[mudnut]

Hey RB30 crew - following on from this post by @mudnut, I'm after a photo of the metal shroud on the exhaust manifold, part of the pre-heat assembly which came stock.

My Patrol hasn't got one (must have been removed by the previous owner), and with the cold weather performance getting worse and worse as the years go on, I've finally decided to fab one myself.

I'd appreciate a few detailed photos showing what it looks like, especially how it's bolted on to the body.

I'm going to have a crack with 1100 aluminium sheeting, if that melts then I'll think of something else. Cheers !

G'day. Sorry for the tardy reply. I have had to modify the heat shield to fit over the headers. An upside down tray with one edge cut off should work. Just use a holesaw to cut a hole and fit an appropriately sized upright pipe a couple of inches to the rear of the filter housing inlet. Most auto shops sell the flexible aluminium ducting you need to pipe hot air into the inlet.

I used U bolts to secure the collector onto the header pipes. From memory there are mounting holes in the factory manifold.

I also have two small sections of hose to fit the diaphragm. One has a small ball bearing forced inside, and is identified with a small blue cable tie. I use that on to stop the diaphragm from operating in warmer weather or on long trips.

When it gets cold I swap out the hoses so the carby warms up faster. It saves a bunch of fuel , because the device on the filter housing seems to allow the hot air to operate too often.