Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[PeeBee]

Bloody cars! I had a look at the a/c again today, had to be simple. I noticed the clutch on the a/c compressor was not engaged and the pump was making a knocking noise - so after chasing my tail I found no power to the clutch but when a second 12V source to the clutch wire it didnt engage and the pump had stopped making a noise.

So tomorrow off to the a/c guy and maybe its a new clutch or a new pump - dont care just want it fixed.

I am commencing the final vehicle pack tomorrow friday ready for the Monday escape. Looked at the car today, reckon it weighs 27T, so new world limit! - seriously its sitting pretty level and I have distributed some of the weight to the other vehicles - I am supplying all the tools etc, so they can carry the load. Not long to go, departing Melb 7am Monday, first night camp outside of Renmark SA on the Murray, then somewhere north of Maree on night 2 then Mt Dare night 3 with luck. If it slips a bit, dont care.

[Rossco]

Have an awesome trip mate can't wait to see all the pics & adventures

Sent from my SM-S711B using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Have an awesome trip mate can't wait to see all the pics & adventures

Sent from my SM-S711B using Tapatalk

Thanks Ross, a/c turned out to be the switch on the dash was reverse wired - like WTF???? So as I pushed it in to energise the compressor clutch, it switched it off, which is why I have been thinking there was a leak - the bastard wasn't on.

Anyway, did a squirt out to the Batty boys then a bit further, all running well, however the boost sender is cooked, blasted up to 28psi boost at one point - simply not possible. Anyway it can wait, starting the packing journey now, many variations I am sure!

Seems the Madigan is open from start to finish and unfortunately Surveyors Hill is off limits/

[PeeBee]

I am coming to the conclusion this car wants to live out its days in the garage. Today, whilst out getting fuel, the volts spiked to 15.3 then dropped to 12.8, dashboard lit up with warning lights fro handbrake to volts and water alarm in fuel - so go it home, checked the obvious stuff and first issue was the excitation fuse holder. could not open it, took about 5 minutes, and once again, another melted 20amp fuse. Put in a new Narva unit, fire it back up, blew straight away, Ummm, I run a Quciktifer which is a unit ex the USA to spread the load across 400amps of rectifiers. It keep the alternator cool whilst under heavy charge loading. Noticed one of the phase wires was broken, so it was outputting from alternator to Quicktifer on two phases.

Replace the cheapie electrical connectors with Narva m/f connectors, back on line.

Will see how far i get tomorrow as we head towards Renmark first day. 29DegC in Mildura, going to be great.

[PeeBee]

Righto, onto the next improvement. The interchiller setup simply does not work for a touring application. I have proven this on the recent 4000klm trip. I have video footage of the sales and marketing blurb showing cooled water temps of 5degC at 100kmhr and in 40 degC, but the best I can achieve is 73DegC , so there is a bit of a gap. I have had the a/c circuit checked and recharged with all new o'rings and gas, its delivering 5degC air temp to the cabin, so its doing what it should, just cant deliver what the seller claims.

Anyway, the solution is to install a second W2A unit in the incoming air source to drop the temp down using the Interchiller. This will improve air density and hence avail power. It also will help with the air temp entering the engine as the deltaT across the s/c as I can see up to 70 degC rise from the compression cycle. This puts the a/c chilling more in line with the ambient air temp chilling for the cabin, only the cooling should be more effective.
The second mod is to then set up a radiator setup like a standard W2A where the water is cooled by the radiator of a W2A setup. I am going to run a closed loop system without a storage volume. The cooling radiators are now mounted on the roofrack. I have 2 coils each with 2 12" fans, approc 4ft2 of area which is 8 times the area of the W2A coil inside the inlet manifold. I will operate the fans manually at this point, as when driving there will be heaps of airflow thru the coils on the rack.
Currently waiting for the 90 deg bends to arrive, have everything else. The two coils are mounted in a frame that is rubber feet isolated from the roofrack. The hoses will run from under the car up the gap between the rear wall and the alum canopy. I am sure this will finally resolve the performance I am chasing. Its not a dead set requirement as I can control temps when cruising at 100-110 simply by backing off a bit and keeping the boost under 11psi. Its a differnt story with low speed crawling or hill climbing off road when the speed at max is 15kmhr and revs high in low range. I can only control the radiator temps with the use of my radiator spray bar - which took a while to resolve - sprays pump duration etc, but now its entirely possible to hold 88 deg C radiator water temps by small spray sessions of
5 seconds, using maybe 100ml each time, however the dual prize is lower egt's.

Anyway, here is the installation on the roofrack, ready to connect the hoses and fill point, then down and under the truck to the Aeroflow pump and when the second W2A unit arrives I will do the mod to the air infeed circuit then hook up the Interchiller route.
W2A roofrack module.jpg

[PeeBee]

OK, try again, forum nazi kicked me off. I ran the hoses today from the roofrack to under the car, Including the fill point and the flowmeter to monitor the flowrate from the pump. The w2a unit for the incoming air arrived, big sucker, going to look at this on the weekend. Unable to add the pics - apparently unauthorised to perform this function???

[PeeBee]

Cannot edit the post either, @AB, what is happening?

[PeeBee]

Ok, bbig day today, dont know where the time went. Plumbed up the new roofrack mounted system and filled it up, bastard of a thing to burp though, still not there after 4 hrs. Flowrate fluctuates from zero to 11lpm, so there is still air trapped in the system. I find the pump wont actually pump unless the radiator fill cap is on, its a 16psi cap. If i try to burp the radiators and the w2a unit the flow drops to zero - dont understand this. The radiator burbing assy I have is a 2L funnel with the matching radiator caps - water does not release - going to try tomorrow in the morning with the car level. Then onto the wiring for the 4 roof fans and the pump. Last if time permits the fluids need dropping diff, gbox transfer engine - going to be a joy.

[MudRunnerTD]

Have you got any pics of the roof mounted unit?

Yes my Frozen Boost W2A was a MoFo to burp. I also had issues with the pump actually moving coolant when the cap was not on. I assume you have the filler up on the roof yeah

[PeeBee]

Have you got any pics of the roof mounted unit?

Yes my Frozen Boost W2A was a MoFo to burp. I also had issues with the pump actually moving coolant when the cap was not on. I assume you have the filler up on the roof yeah

Yes filler on the roof, have hooked up a garden hose into the circuit as well, this seems to fix the issue as water and air was purged out the overflow until it was bubble free, I mean micro bubble free, but to remove the hose introduces air back in. I am going to put a little tap in that connection and see how that goes today. This emerging storm front is going to play havoc with my plans though as need the car outside of the garage to do this - another first world problem!! Glad to hear you experienced what I am seeing.