Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
Well went through and cleaned electrical connections, replaced some vac hoses and disassembled and cleaned the Dawes valve.

Nothing made a difference until I cleaned the Dawes valve.

I marked the Dawes valve before disassembly, but when I put it back together I put it back to where I reckon it was, but it's now boosting it's brains out. I keep blowing pipes off. I'm getting up to 22psi at about 1/3 throttle on the flat.

When I put the Dawes back together, I put the ball in the small half and the spring in the large half which I'm pretty sure is correct.

I'm winding the two halves apart to lower the boost. Is that correct???

I can't remember the procedure for setting the boost. From memory it's something like go up a hill (or put the vehicle under load) at about 3000 rpm until you get a boost of 15-16 psi. Is that correct??

Thanks for any help.
@10G Good news, u having success _ But appears that Dawes is assembled incorrectly as u describe.

Dawes assy:
Drop ball in large body end first, followed by the spring. Large body section goes nearest to cooler.

Wind the male threaded "smaller section" in (clockwise) to increase boost.

I can't remember the procedure for setting the boost. From memory it's something like go up a hill (or put the vehicle under load) at about 3000 rpm until you get a boost of 15-16 psi. Is that correct??
In 3rd gear, hauling @ 3000rpm (with needle closed) and when no limp (approx 15-16 psi) open needle valve so lever is just resting against stop screw or spool rate that suits _ do not make it laggy. May need to wind Dawes in a little if boost drops when u adjust needle valve.

Suggest that you remove all boost hoses and wipe off any excess oil residue, clean mating parts and re clamp.

Get it working and I can then suggest an alternate arrangement that may improve drivability _ if interested.