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GUFLEX Re manual boost control adjustment - if spool is too laggy, by having the needle valve way too open this will cause higher EGTs when engine is under load hauling.
As said best to adjust needle so that lever just touches the vane limit stop screw.
Suggest U first close needle then adjust Tillix to achieve a target max boost (initially 15-16psi) and then at idle gradually open the needle valve until the lever just starts to drop away from the stop screw. May then want to wind the Tillix in a bit more to raise max boost again - this is fine but once again, adjust the needle valve so the lever just starts to drop away from the stop screw. Check how it goes.
Manual or Auto?
AFR should not have change if ECU was not touched. Stock ECU? or Remap?
I would agree mate.
From other read:
10W40 would be fine, just take it easy, do not labour engine (no tow) for first 1000kms (don't rush it) and then drop oil and change filter (@1000kms) then again at 5000kms change.
5000 kms ago I rebuilt my CRD, did not use run in oil, just 10w40 and changed @ 500ks then 1000ks just being over cautious. Oil & filters are cheap in comparison to rebuild.
As @
MB mention how are ECTs going and daily check both oil and water levels (especially water for first week or so).