Return pipe on fuel filter CRD ZD30 (2010)

[Tothetip09]

Hi all, I have read through many of the threads regarding the factory fuel filter but can't find what I am researching. I have had it with the factory filter, the guy I bought the vehicle from had nothing but grief and I have the same story (it leaks from the water sensor) new seal, new filter, teflon tape, $seal O ring, OVER IT. Anyhoo, I have bought a Ryco set up. Question is can I simply by-pass the filter with the return fuel. Join the pipe with a brass line joiner so it returns straight to the tank, OR do I need that fuel to provide sufficient fuel pressure on the in line? I am guessing there must be a reason for the return line to run to the factory filter then to the tank- unless they just do it for appearances.

[Tothetip09]

KWhMEKiuQLGIfBOrO5WRxw.jpg Thought since I got no response I would go and do it any way. First time I routed the spiller fuel back to the filter and It started then cut out and wouldn't start. So I bypassed the filter with a straight barbed joiner. Turned it over and it started straight away. Any input? Seems strange no one can throw some light on things.
I will have to do something with the water sensor. I'll see if there is a thread on that.

[pollenface]

You could bypass the return line.

It's purpose is to use heated returning fuel (from the engine) to warm the fuel in the filter, the OEM filter has a thermostatic valve which opens at a certain temp to allow the fuel to mix (not sure what the temp is).

In other places on the internet I've read that 60c is an ideal pre-combustion temp for diesel fuel to help with atomization from the injector nozzles.

[mudski]

FWIW.
The replacemnt filter setup is no way good enough to filter the fuel for a Common rail diesel motor. Branded depending, but that looks like a Ryco filter and they are only 15micron. The OEM filter would be around 6 micron. You will only be damaging your IP and injectors using this filter alone.