
Originally Posted by
04OFF
FYI, When i researched this initially with my S5, i read rare reports of some people getting fault lights by "removing" the shunt plug as you describe, to solve it, it was suggested they remove the shunt from the battery terminal connection, but leave it hanging (cable tied) but still connected to its plug so the car ECU still believes it is there.
Personally ive had zero issues with my shunt connected (since March 2020) a correctly set up second battery should run a DC-DC charger anyway, i think problems arise because people attach stuff to the battery terminals as they normally would with old school cars, this bypasses the shunt and so the extra load is not compensated for, but if all added loads are connected to a body earth (and not directly to the battery terminal) the shunt will see the load, and increase output from the Alternator respectively.
The ultimate decision for shunt i left to my Auto Electrician, he said defiantly leave the shunt as per factory, my second battery can still get fed about 39Amps charge at idle through the DC-DC, and runs my fridge 24/7 (have a thread on it in this section somewhere)