Engine block or head temp?

[Winnie]

Hey team, I've ordered one of these Engine Guard temperature gauges. I needed something with a small digital display and this seemed to be the only thing I could find that fit the criteria.
The one I have ordered comes with a 1/8NPT liquid temperature sensor which I will screw into the top thermostat housing, and a second bolt on sensor.
Where would be the best place to mount the bolt on surface temperature sensor? Thinking either the block or the head but even then in what position on either?
I wouldn't have bothered with the second sensor but the extra cost was negligible and may help to identify an engine getting hot from losing coolant where the liquid sensor would not.

https://engineguard.com.au/product/e...kaAtBFEALw_wcB

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[mudski]

Hey team, I've ordered one of these Engine Guard temperature gauges. I needed something with a small digital display and this seemed to be the only thing I could find that fit the criteria.
The one I have ordered comes with a 1/8NPT liquid temperature sensor which I will screw into the top thermostat housing, and a second bolt on sensor.
Where would be the best place to mount the bolt on surface temperature sensor? Thinking either the block or the head but even then in what position on either?
I wouldn't have bothered with the second sensor but the extra cost was negligible and may help to identify an engine getting hot from losing coolant where the liquid sensor would not.

https://engineguard.com.au/product/e...kaAtBFEALw_wcB

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Not sure on the engine but maybe on the top tank of the radiator? A low water sensor is the best for alarming you if there is coolant loss. Its real handy too when your filling up the cooling system too, it will keep going off if you haven't burped the system properly.

[PeeBee]

Chris,

I run 4 of these, dual sensor units. I have found the simple bolt on units the best. I tried their liquid sensor and it was way off the mark to be honest, confirmed with both an IR gun and one of their bolt on units side by side and also a totally different unit. I made contact with the owner and he was great, however wanted a couple of 'swap this for this' and they were reasonable except for the amount of junking I had to do, so I discarded the liquid unit for a purpose made unit for the application. I use the unit for water simply as a bench mark rough temp indicator for under bonnet temps and it seems to be quite accurate for that.

I have clamp on ring connectors on the gearbox and transfer case, insulated thermally. I also have sensors clamped on the in and out of the oil cooler and the same for the radiator on the actual spigots. The minute difference between direct contact and the metal on metal contact with conductive paste is not worth thinking about in my view.

There are actually 2 revisions of these sensors and the latest ones, which i would presume you have a wider range of options than the earlier ones. I have 3 earlier units and one current unit. I am very happy with the performance and the only thing you need to pay attention to is the very thin sensor cable - its easily crushed or crimped or cut. You will know if this happens as the sensor will tell you.

For water i use the Redarc low water sensor alarm. Its a bit sensitive especially on a hill, but just another instrument. I tried the Engine guard for the intercooler water circuit as wanted to measure IN and OUT temps, but thats where it failed so went with a special unit out of the UK that looked better, and then a different set of instruments for the IN and OUT of the air temps as engine guard only offered the same water fitting for air as well.

If the connection is a good clean firm one then I don't think you can beat the ring electrical version. If you already have the unit with a screw in, i would try to validate its accuracy - i did this with a cup of boiling water and mine was 40 deg off, but I think this is an execption rather than the rule.

If you are putting it in a liquid stream, find somewhere that is bubble free, as this will be an insulation zone, and preferable at the bottom of the pipe, not the top.

[Winnie]

Chris,

I run 4 of these, dual sensor units. I have found the simple bolt on units the best. I tried their liquid sensor and it was way off the mark to be honest, confirmed with both an IR gun and one of their bolt on units side by side and also a totally different unit. I made contact with the owner and he was great, however wanted a couple of 'swap this for this' and they were reasonable except for the amount of junking I had to do, so I discarded the liquid unit for a purpose made unit for the application. I use the unit for water simply as a bench mark rough temp indicator for under bonnet temps and it seems to be quite accurate for that.

I have clamp on ring connectors on the gearbox and transfer case, insulated thermally. I also have sensors clamped on the in and out of the oil cooler and the same for the radiator on the actual spigots. The minute difference between direct contact and the metal on metal contact with conductive paste is not worth thinking about in my view.

There are actually 2 revisions of these sensors and the latest ones, which i would presume you have a wider range of options than the earlier ones. I have 3 earlier units and one current unit. I am very happy with the performance and the only thing you need to pay attention to is the very thin sensor cable - its easily crushed or crimped or cut. You will know if this happens as the sensor will tell you.

For water i use the Redarc low water sensor alarm. Its a bit sensitive especially on a hill, but just another instrument. I tried the Engine guard for the intercooler water circuit as wanted to measure IN and OUT temps, but thats where it failed so went with a special unit out of the UK that looked better, and then a different set of instruments for the IN and OUT of the air temps as engine guard only offered the same water fitting for air as well.

If the connection is a good clean firm one then I don't think you can beat the ring electrical version. If you already have the unit with a screw in, i would try to validate its accuracy - i did this with a cup of boiling water and mine was 40 deg off, but I think this is an execption rather than the rule.

If you are putting it in a liquid stream, find somewhere that is bubble free, as this will be an insulation zone, and preferable at the bottom of the pipe, not the top.

Thanks heaps for that info Phil, I'll do a test on it for sure before install.

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[PeeBee]

Any issues with the instrument, get straight onto the guy in Cairns. He is a really good guy and knows his product. I will use his gear again if required despite the hiccup with the one instrument that didn't work out.

[Winnie]

Any issues with the instrument, get straight onto the guy in Cairns. He is a really good guy and knows his product. I will use his gear again if required despite the hiccup with the one instrument that didn't work out.

Thanks again Phil. I will let you know how the product pre-install test goes.
I haven't received the unit yet, still with Australia Post.

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[Winnie]

I received the unit today and tested both sensors in hot water comparing to 2 other accurate thermometers and both of the engine guard sensors showed the same reading as my thermometers.
Will work on the install tonight.

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[Rossco]

Beers in the shed !!! Just got home, cracked one and time to relax and play with the 4by. . .

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[Winnie]

Beers in the shed !!! Just got home, cracked one and time to relax and play with the 4by. . .

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Yeah keen! Was planning on doing it tomorrow but have to make an emergency run to Nicholson tomorrow.
I could even use the bolt on one to take a gearbox temp... No idea what I'm going to do with it!

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[Winnie]

Does anybody know what size hole is required to be drilled for a 1/8NPT tap?
The 1/8NPT tap was luckily the only imperial tap in my kit but has no info on what size hole to drill.

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