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3rd July 2020, 05:16 PM
#401
Moderator
Originally Posted by
mudski
I did Darren but the site I was using to upload the pics shut down, or something happened, can't remember to be honest, and all the pics wouldn't work. I got the shits with it so I just left it. If you can rename it, Mudski's GU Build thread, or something or something like that, and move it that would be great! Thanks Darren.
Hey mate, i did one better, i found your old thread and have merged them and renamed it for you.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to MudRunnerTD For This Useful Post:
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3rd July 2020 05:16 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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3rd July 2020, 11:11 PM
#402
The master farter
Originally Posted by
MudRunnerTD
Hey mate, i did one better, i found your old thread and have merged them and renamed it for you.
Bloody legend! Cheers mate.
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11th July 2020, 11:19 PM
#403
The master farter
Mudski GU Build Thread
So the TD was built some 4 years ago. The engine builders put on this water rail which draws coolant from the cylinder head and back into the cooling system. This is because the TD’s have coolant flow dead spots and this jigger is supposed to help. Well. It’s been leaking since it was fitted. And it’s been back seven times and it still leaks. The water is fed into the head via a brass nut and olive setup. The coolant will only leak when the motor is cold. So my theory is when the engine gets hot, and it does, very hot sometimes, the brass fittings expand and then when it cools, the nut that holds the olive in tight loosens. Which it does, I have re tightened then on a few occasions.
IMG_3172.jpg
So. Being fed up with this. I have hopefully found a resolve.
Using silicone coolant hose, from work of course, on barb fittings, and a special heat shrink hose clamp, compliments of work again, on the engine side of the setup. I cannot use any worm drive or other clamp as there is simply zero room once it’s all in.
I’ve only done one port so far as I want to see if it will hold up or not as the job is quite fidly trying to work around the injector spill rail and injector lines.
IMG_3196.jpg
IMG_3195.jpg
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Last edited by mudski; 11th July 2020 at 11:22 PM.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
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12th July 2020, 12:02 AM
#404
The master farter
Mudski GU Build Thread
Also tested out my wiring for the winch switches. Works as i wanted. Push the winch in button and the light for that goes on and there is power out, push the button out and the light goes one and power out. Yay!
IMG_3070.jpg
Adjustments.jpg
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Last edited by mudski; 12th July 2020 at 12:04 AM.
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12th July 2020, 01:58 AM
#405
Patrol Guru
Great stuff mate - let’s hope you coolant pipe idea works 👍🏻
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12th July 2020, 10:28 PM
#406
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Sprock
Great stuff mate - let’s hope you coolant pipe idea works
So do I. Only doing one as a test. If it fails I will try DOT approved push fit fittings next. But o know the silicone hose will be better for the heat than nylon air hose.
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12th July 2020, 10:30 PM
#407
The master farter
Just about ready to mount the winch and get the bar back on.
IMG_3208.jpg
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12th July 2020, 10:43 PM
#408
Originally Posted by
mudski
So do I. Only doing one as a test. If it fails I will try DOT approved push fit fittings next. But o know the silicone hose will be better for the heat than nylon air hose.
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Mark, maybe these are similar, but I was supplied a hose and fitting kit for my oil/hydraulic winch lines that are push on, and the only way to get them back off is to cut the hose down the length of the hose barb - they are rated at something like 300degC and they dont leak - have them on the winch, power steering and oil cooler lines. Its a blue rubber hose and the barbs have the flat face for the hose end - excellent system, didn''t believe they would work, but they did. If you have to make a repair to the line at anytime, or shorten the hose, slice it off with a stanley knife and push the hose back on. No hose clamps required.
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13th July 2020, 08:13 AM
#409
The master farter
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
Mark, maybe these are similar, but I was supplied a hose and fitting kit for my oil/hydraulic winch lines that are push on, and the only way to get them back off is to cut the hose down the length of the hose barb - they are rated at something like 300degC and they dont leak - have them on the winch, power steering and oil cooler lines. Its a blue rubber hose and the barbs have the flat face for the hose end - excellent system, didn''t believe they would work, but they did. If you have to make a repair to the line at anytime, or shorten the hose, slice it off with a stanley knife and push the hose back on. No hose clamps required.
That pretty much what I need. There is zero room for a hose clamp to go around a barb fitting. I'll speak with Enzed today about them.
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15th July 2020, 09:22 PM
#410
The master farter
Mudski GU Build Thread
Not getting much done but...
Got the winch in the bar.
IMG_3216.jpg
My concern is the winch will hit the power steering cooler, even though I’ve moved it back as far as I can.
IMG_3217.jpg
IMG_3218.jpg
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