What did you do to your Patrol today!

[Cuppa]

Front RDA slotted and dimpled rotors and yellowstuff pads, thanks @Cuppa (I think it was you) for your recommendation. Also put a new extended main braided brake line on there too.

They say no emergency braking for first 200 miles, so haven't been able to stomp them. They do definitely feel like I'm driving a different car already though!

Good stuff, braided line too!
Have you got the bedding in instructions - easy to do, but important I think. I did the x3 for Yellowstuff. Performance noticeably improved whilst out doing it.

When a vehicle has had both new rotors and/or just new pads fitted, there are two processes or objectives, to getting the brake system to operate at optimal performance.
The first step is to make sure the disc face is clean of all oils/anti rust or any foreign matter like previous brake pad material. If the rotors are not being replaced, then it is imperative that the disc is machined, prior to the fitment of new pads- without exception.
The second step is heating (not cooking) the brake rotor and pads, to transfer the pad material evenly, onto the rotor face.
This step involves performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad are heated steadily, to allow the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. The friction surface should be clear of all oils, which are used to stop the rotor from rusting, before being fitted to the motor vehicle. Whilst these will be burnt off, they risk transferring and possibly polluting the brake pad material and will definitely lead to a longer bedding-in process. Whilst performing a series of brake applications to transfer the pad material, care should be taken to not come to a complete stop, as this can lead to the transfer of pad material unevenly on the disc at the point where the pad comes to rest on the friction surface.
• A typical program of 8-9 brake applications, from 60km down to 10km p/hour, without any cool down in between would be sufficient.
For performance pad materials, a further two sequences of ten stops will be required after a cooling down period between each cycle, to ensure that the pads have reached the required higher operating temperature to allow for the pad material to transfer effectively.*
At all times during the bedding in process, care should be taken to not apply the brakes in a harsh manner or decelerate from high speeds, as this will corrupt the transfer of materials and lead to uneven material build up on the rotor surface, which in most instances will require machining to regain a flat rotor surface for optimal operation (Disc thickness vibration-DTV-which leads to brake judder or vibration-see RDA/EBC Bulletin #1

[0-TJ-0]

Pardon my ignorance but why the extended brake line ? Surely the factory 1 isn’t to short to allow wheel travel ? Unless you’ve got a big lift & no sway bars I guess

It's got a 2in lift in it and at full drop of the front axel the factory line was guitar string tight. It's not too often you get that condition driving but I probably should have changed it long ago to be honest. Not proud of that, but there ya go. Got it done now.

Good stuff, braided line too!
Have you got the bedding on instructions - easy to do, but important I think. I did the x3 for Yellowstuff. Performance noticeably improved whilst out doing it.

When a vehicle has had both new rotors and/or just new pads fitted, there are two processes or objectives, to getting the brake system to operate at optimal performance.
The first step is to make sure the disc face is clean of all oils/anti rust or any foreign matter like previous brake pad material. If the rotors are not being replaced, then it is imperative that the disc is machined, prior to the fitment of new pads- without exception.
The second step is heating (not cooking) the brake rotor and pads, to transfer the pad material evenly, onto the rotor face.
This step involves performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad are heated steadily, to allow the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. The friction surface should be clear of all oils, which are used to stop the rotor from rusting, before being fitted to the motor vehicle. Whilst these will be burnt off, they risk transferring and possibly polluting the brake pad material and will definitely lead to a longer bedding-in process. Whilst performing a series of brake applications to transfer the pad material, care should be taken to not come to a complete stop, as this can lead to the transfer of pad material unevenly on the disc at the point where the pad comes to rest on the friction surface.
• A typical program of 8-9 brake applications, from 60km down to 10km p/hour, without any cool down in between would be sufficient.
For performance pad materials, a further two sequences of ten stops will be required after a cooling down period between each cycle, to ensure that the pads have reached the required higher operating temperature to allow for the pad material to transfer effectively.*
At all times during the bedding in process, care should be taken to not apply the brakes in a harsh manner or decelerate from high speeds, as this will corrupt the transfer of materials and lead to uneven material build up on the rotor surface, which in most instances will require machining to regain a flat rotor surface for optimal operation (Disc thickness vibration-DTV-which leads to brake judder or vibration-see RDA/EBC Bulletin #1

Well, I've done that once. I didn't realise it needs to be done 2 more times. Looks like I'll still be able to get it done as the next 2 are done after a cool down anyway. I'll have a look at that tomorrow. Thanks mate.

[jay see]

Swapped out that radiator hose.

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[tryan277]

Pulled the radius arms out today.
Its a covid job.........
The bushes on the left arm were a not the best.
left side raduis arm.JPGIMG_4400.JPG
Have a new complete set coming next week.


Cheers Trevor

[Sprock]

Thanks mate , there ya go

[0-TJ-0]

Took the drawers out. Served me well but time for a change and an update now I have the camper as primary means of storage(and weight). Not sure what the plan is, but probably just tubs.

IMG_20200713_110950.jpg

Much more room!
IMG_20200714_132814.jpg

Also, they are for sale in northern suburbs of Adelaide if anyone is interested.
IMG_20200714_132309.jpg

[gazq]

Making it a bit easier to see whats going on behind the big bastard by adding a reversing camera with Bluetooth radio. Aldi special for 70 bucks. Slam her into reverse and the video feed from the reverse camera kicks in. I've got a 3 year old and I am paranoid about him following or sneaking outside without me knowing.
IMG_20200802_133925983.jpgIMG_20200802_133939567.jpg

[Dasa]

Flushed the rad with a alkaline rad cleaner today after checking it a few days ago to find the coolant was black and the hoses had gone hard on the inside due to corrosion buildup.
First flushed and refiled with water for a few days which came out fairly clean when draining before putting in the rad cleaner for a 20min drive which loosened up a heap more but I think there is still a lot left so I will probably be flushing it again in another 6-12 months.

I know they say better late than never but this may just have been to late.
Here is a little of what came out when draining the cleaner which is probably not as bad as the coolant that was first drained.
IMG_20200804_171240_9.jpgIMG_20200804_171231_9.jpg

TD42 was replaced a few years back and the used engine must have been a bit rusty as I had it flushed by mechanics 3 times in the first six months before forgetting to look at it again for a few years.

[MB]

Nice Work Dasa Mate!
Does make us wonder how many overheating water TD42’s need to consider a top system clean start from scratch approach too mate



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[Plasnart]

Making it a bit easier to see whats going on behind the big bastard by adding a reversing camera with Bluetooth radio. Aldi special for 70 bucks. Slam her into reverse and the video feed from the reverse camera kicks in. I've got a 3 year old and I am paranoid about him following or sneaking outside without me knowing.
IMG_20200802_133925983.jpgIMG_20200802_133939567.jpg

Nice mate. Over 40 years ago my old man came home for lunch one day, and just before he left to go back to work I had been bouncing up and down on the tow bar of his car in the driveway (I was about 4 or 5 I think). I slipped off the tow ball and got the right cuff of my pants hooked over the ball. Laying there on my back trying to unhook my pants, the old man came out to go back to work. I shut up because I thought I'd get in trouble for jumping on the tow ball. He got in but before reversing down the drive he thought he should check behind the car as I wasn't around which was unusual. He found me laying there with one foot hooked to the tow bar. I was too naive to know the danger but he turned white. Cameras are a good thing.