Fuses (& circuit breakers) protect the wiring in case of a short circuit, to prevent the wire getting hot & starting a fire. A fuse may also be required to protect the fridge itself. Best to have protection at both ends of the wire. On mine connection to the battery runs to a circuit breaker with a capacity to cover all combined loads (a short circuit would pull a higher current & would therefore trip the circuit breaker) & then to the fridge via a 10amp fuse near the fridge because that is what the fridge manufacturer specifies. If only using one I'd put it close to the battery.
If using a circuit breaker avoid the auto reset type. They make fault finding far more difficult. Use a manual reset type ...... & this can double as switch which can be handy.
Be sure to go 'heavy' on the cable you use. The most common cause of fridges not working properly is inadequate cabling causing voltage drop. You want pretty much the same voltage at the fridge as you have at the battery terminals (within say 0.3v max difference).
This is the wiring diagram for my set up. Each circuit also has it's own circuit breaker, but that part is irrelevant for your purposes. (Separating the circuits just makes fault finding easier). The important bit is protecting the cabling as well as the fridge.
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