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It had been a long time since I had done a tyre repair, apart from a couple of plugs, so after checking a slow leak and finding a puncture, thought I would do a plug and patch, and to familiarize myself before a trip.
Wanted also to test out a bead breaker I had made for the Kangaroo Jack, and take a few pic's to share.
First pic is of the offending screw.
Mark the area around the puncture so you don't lose it.
Then thread the plug onto the needle half way and insert about two thirds of the remaining length into the hole.
Edit: If you don't want to lose air have your needle already threaded and ready to insert.
So far there is still air in the tyre, so just add air to the correct pressure to keep you going until you get to a repair shop, or your camp for the night, to repair with a patch.
In this case I will continue the repair in the shed.
Edit: I have been informed that plugging may do more damage to the tyre belts and may not be legal in some states, and also 'why bother if I am going to patch it anyway'.
My reasoning was; this tyre is getting near its 'use-by' anyway. (a spare-spare)
I wanted to simulate a possible scenario.
I think 'it had a screw in it, now it has a plug' (and patch)
Last edited by Bruza; 8th May 2011 at 09:30 AM.
Reason: Given above
The next shot shows the bead breaker attachment for the jack. Some folks will use the whole foot of the jack, with varying success. I believe crushing the whole tyre profile down would have to damage the steel radials.
Here I have placed the jack/bead-breaker under a solid part of the bull bar and the purposefully arced foot of the breaker as close as possible to the edge of the rim. Also lashed the jack to the bar for safety.
Before attempting to lever the tyre off, generously squirt a mixture off dish-washing liquid and water around the bead. In this shot you will also see a very useful full sized tyre lever, the bend and hook on one end is great for levering the the second bead off the rim. (Couldn't manage camera and that maneuver)
The next part is to rasp the shiny surface and any ribs off the area to be patched (no pic). I then used a vacuum to clean the inside of the tyre (in the bush a moist clean rag is ample).
EDIT: You then put your glue onto the roughened surface, wait till the surface is dry, strip the film from the "sticking" side of the patch and press-on. It is a good practice here to roll the patch to remove any chance of air being trapped, I have a small fiber-glassing roller for this purpose, but if you were diligent, pushing out from the middle of the patch with your thumb, should be ample.
Another point of note here: In the old days of tubes ( an even now as a further repair option) you would sprinkle chalk dust over the repair, preventing the excess patch glue from sticking to the tube.
Then I clean the inside of the wheel, paying particular attention to any irregularities around the bead area, which may need sanding.
Forgot to mention earlier to mark the tyre with a reference point, the purpose being to try and get the tyre back on as close as possible to its balanced position.
After lining up with above mentioned referenced point, I am using a tie-down strap and my 12 volt pump to reseat the bead, just to make sure I can do the same in the bush. It seated far easier than I thought it would.
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