All Things Chev

[PeeBee]

so 2k for about 4 pulleys, wow, where do I sign........

Yeah, i know, but what do you do otherwise. I don't have the time to stuff around getting a shop in Melb to machine them and I want them 'right;\' from the start, which is why the entire kit is being assembled in Bunbury then shipped over as a verified unit. I think the idlers are wider as well, as is the auto tensioner?

[threedogs]

@PeeBee, do you recommend fitting a larger radiator.
My friend overheats on 30 degree days in Melb or does the engine heat
need to escape??

[PeeBee]

John, the overheating is probably something he will have to manage by driving to the conditions. I hear so much contradictory feedback its really hard to believe any of it. Physically increasing the depth of the radiator will have a slight improvement as the fin area will increase and increasing the water volume will have no effect at all as sooner or later all the water will be the same temp and its a closed system, so best bang for buck is increasing the area, but you will have a devil of a time unless you take to the front superstructure with a torch.

I have added bonnet gills, and the heat pours out of them but how effective they are as an improvement, I would say tiny in all honesty. Brunswick diesel have a new alloy radiator that does stay cooler than the standard, its about $1800 from memory. A guy I know had one fitted to his supercharged optimiser, towed a 2500kg caravan from Albany to close to the tip of cape York, going the back way on dirt roads, mostly at 100kmph and he claims it transformed the vehicle, even in 35 degC day and 90% humidity with the van on, reckons it never got over 5/8th hot on the factory gauge, but what that means in degC I dont know.

I am adding a modified Duramax 9 blade fan to mine and its claimed to shift a lot of air. I also have the big electric on the outside of the radiator for low speed work. I have not had a chance yet to test out for extra forced airflow, however its sure to make a difference. What i will say is that once the temp gets to 95 degC its very hard to reduce it, and from my experience its a fast track to 110 degC

I think I would start with ensuring the radiator he has is in good order, thermostats are perhaps renewed as well. We can go down to the 68degC units instead of the 88degC - I have these to swap over when i do the upgrade, but the literature says they are the right ones (88's), but they are just too close to the start of the runaway temp zone for my liking.

Since you cannot easily change the surface area, all you can do is affect the heat transfer rate by adding more airflow. You could try water sprays, @AB has this setup on his and it works well I think, but its another system. I would look at additional airflow by checking the hub is in good order, change the mechanical fan to the duramax and add a big electric unit - biggest volume that would fit - @MB has some pretty good units, mine shifts around 2500cfm from memory. Lastly have achat with Brunswick Diesels, theyn have been wrestling with this issue for years, never quite fixed it in all models they have converted but I think they have enough runs on the board to trust. Also, get hime to join the Chevy Optimiser and P400 facebook community - heaps of info and like this forum, no BS or haters from what I have encountered. Its a closed page group so you will need to request a join. Hope this helps.


EDIT - I took the car for a quick run just now and it got to about 82 deg C on and 62 degC off the radiator. When I got home and parked it in the garage I turned the electric fan on and boy does it pump some air out the bonnet gills, amazing.

[MB]

@PeeBee, do you recommend fitting a larger radiator.
My friend overheats on 30 degree days in Melb or does the engine heat
need to escape??

As Phil kindly mentions John mate, how long is a piece of thread on customs!
Narrow down your old mates final truck needs and we’ll all get together to hopefully assist thereafter good man!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

As Phil kindly mentions John mate, how long is a piece of thread on customs!
Narrow down your old mates final truck needs and we’ll all get together to hopefully assist thereafter good man!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well put MB.

[PeeBee]

Air filters arrived today, huge!DSC02243.JPG Can now start looking at the fabrication of the airbox

[poindexter]

Yikes..... that's a big one

[PeeBee]

There was one larger but it was going to take up so much room so I went with this one, rated at 1250cfm

[PeeBee]

OK, decided to go with a water/meth injection system as a way to control EGT's and reduce heat load on the cooling system to some degree. I have kept it simple as the Chev does not have any electronic control, so have gone with an AEM 3302 boost controlled system, formatted for boost up to 35psi. The injection maps are already preset, however simple 'injection on' and 'injection off' selector knobs are all thats needed to be adjusted, and the kit comes with a couple of different injection nozzles to play around with. I intend to be running water only, no methanol as the HP gains are in the s/c and this also allows me to draw down a water source from the 130L water tank i have on board for my supply, hence no need to find another bit of realestate for a 20L tank and have the headache with methanol which is a poison. I shopped around and found a mob in the US who have sold me a kit at $359 USD plus shipping, so this works out around $250 cheaper than buying ex Aussie. Its a really good price, circa $200USD off their list price. Thanks @nissannewby for the prod in this direction, I think its a good starting point and can alow me to improve in steps if required when and if i strike heat issues.

[the evil twin]

Good plan, cobber... esp going 100% water IMHO