ZD30 Di Won't Start

[philws]

G'day Forum,

I'm really hoping that someone will be able to help here coz I'm about ready to toss in the towel. Here are the details:

Vehicle:
11/02 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU Patrol
ZD30 Di Engine
Catch Can Fitted
Needle and Dawes Valve Fitted
EGR Blocked
Pyro and Boost gauges fitted

Recent History:
10000ks ago the head cracked, I bought a new head which came with new components (valves cams etc..a bolt on replacement). I put it all back together and has been running fine since did a 3000 k drive to SA and back with no dramas.

Problem:
Saturday, had filled up the tank on the Friday, drove down to the peninsula everything was fine, Saturday morning I was out in a paddock and lost power. The engine would idle but did not really respond to throttle, it would cough a little bit at full throttle but otherwise no response, no response to the warm-up switch either. No MIL showing. I tried priming the fuel filter and lifting off the airfilter cover to see if there was a restriction there but no good. After a couple of minutes of idling when i pressed the throttle the engine coughed a bit then started to rev up a bit rough, after about 30secs it was running normally. I figured it must've been something in the fuel so thought I would change the fuel filter, I drove back to melb and around on Saturday, got a fuel filter but drove about 140ks with no problems.

Sunday: Drove 5 mins from home and the same thing happened, I changed the fuel filter on the side of the road, no difference, it would start but only idle with the only response to throttle input being that it would get a bit rough but rpms wouldnt increase. Now I got a MIL and used the ecutalk to get the code; 76 Spill valve. After stopping the car this time, it wouldn't start again. I got it towed home and tried taking the fuel lines off, checking for restrictions or leaks - none found. I had a look online and some sites mentioned a filter that lived in the IP, however, I couldn't find one? I cleaned out some dust from the two plugs that sit infront of the back of the IP, no change. I tried hooking a funnel full of fuel directly to the inlet of the IP, it would suck fuel in when cranking but didn't fire. I've checked all fuses and they all seem fine (I couldn't find a fuse for the ECM on the IP though - should there be one?)

What should I do next? Any help would be greatly appreciated coz im stuffed as to what to do next - and i'm bloody sick of having the car in the garage in pieces

Cheers

Phil

[philws]

Back in the shed....ive taken the intercooler off and disconnected one of the injection lines from an injector and then cranked the engine....no fuel is coming out of the line....I assume this means the ip is cactus? Please someone tell me I'm wrong and there is a simple fix....

Cheers

Phil

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[mudski]

Code 76 Spill valve timing.
https://www.tillix.com.au/understand...-valve-timing/

Sorry I don't know a lot about these pumps. But it seems to me its pump related.

[philws]

Thanks mudski, that was an interesting article. My main question now is if it is possible that an electrical problem (not within the ip itself) could be causing the spill valve to be closed thus not allowing fuel to the injectors?

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[mudski]

Thanks mudski, that was an interesting article. My main question now is if it is possible that an electrical problem (not within the ip itself) could be causing the spill valve to be closed thus not allowing fuel to the injectors?

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Not sure mate, its something you will need to ask a pump specialist. But it all points to the IP unfortunately. where in Melbourne are you? Theres a few mobs around who work on these pumps.
AG Diesel in Clayton, where I will be taking my Patrol for a tune up do the VP44 pumps....http://www.agdiesel.com.au/our-services

[philws]

Morning Mudski, do you know if IPs are repairable/is it worthwhile? I took my injectors to AG Diesel to be tested and cleaned when I replaced my head, I'll give them a call.

Cheers

Phil

[mudski]

Morning Mudski, do you know if IPs are repairable/is it worthwhile? I took my injectors to AG Diesel to be tested and cleaned when I replaced my head, I'll give them a call.

Cheers

Phil

Depends on how much you love your ZD30. I do believe its repairable though.

When my pump shat itself I was not prepared to spend anymore coin on it so I did the TD transplant. just as well as upon removing the head off the ZD number 4 piston had a crack in it and was ready to drop the grenade pin...

[philws]

I do like the trol, plus I have now dropped a fair chunk of cash into it, about 3000k before the head blew, the clutch let go and I ponied up for an exedy heavy duty clutch and flywheel. I am considering though if it is just going to be a money sink??? If you don't mind my asking, how much did the TD transplant cost you? Thanks for you help

Cheers

Phil

[mudski]

I do like the trol, plus I have now dropped a fair chunk of cash into it, about 3000k before the head blew, the clutch let go and I ponied up for an exedy heavy duty clutch and flywheel. I am considering though if it is just going to be a money sink??? If you don't mind my asking, how much did the TD transplant cost you? Thanks for you help

Cheers

Phil

Phil I rebuilt the motor. I didnt buy a second hand one. I stopped counting at 22k. For build, removal, instal, everything. A good second hand motor is maybe 8-12k. I think Patrol A Part had brand new TD42Ti long motors for around 12K not long ago too. I had dropped around 10k just in pump, injectors, turbo and intercooler, I bought the top quality components for the build....
If your handy with the tools, a conversion can be done at home. I just didnt have the resources to do so. So it did cost me more in the end. But, I'm happy with what I have now. I still do think though if your Patrol is a daily around towner, the ZD30 wins. The ZD is a zippy motor and can boost up nice an early in the revs, which makes for a smoother and easy drive. But the TD wins everywhere else IMO. Highway driving I rarely need to drop out of 5th, even of decent hills.

[Hodge]

From what I know , the di pumps cannot be part-able or fixed ... They need to be re-done or rebuilt and calibrated as a whole.
Most codes relating to pumps usually end up being the pump swap over.

I hope I am wrong but I know two people who were in the same boat and just couldn't get rid of the patrol after sinking so much $ into it so they just paid up and got the pump replaced.

And they are not cheap.
$3-4k for a reco. Unit.

Try ringing wreckers , get some prices.

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