Finally fitted a new piston in the front D/S brake calliper. When I fitted new discs and pads a while ago, I found the bottom of the rubber boot was ripped and had allowed moisture to get in and cause the piston to rust along the seal.
Finally fitted a new piston in the front D/S brake calliper. When I fitted new discs and pads a while ago, I found the bottom of the rubber boot was ripped and had allowed moisture to get in and cause the piston to rust along the seal.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
MB (18th May 2018)
Disassembled my vnt turbo actuator rod and with the liberal use of some Mil spec CLP "clean lubricate preserve solution" got my turbo actuator rod adjuster working and now can change its length to bring on boost earlier. Set the actuator lever up to hit stop by measurement (inches of mercury-vacuum) with the new mityvac hand pressure/vac pump that arrived today Good kit can use to bleed brakes and clutch as well.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
MB (18th May 2018)
Fitted some 6.5 in speakers all around a year or so back one of the better mods.
Tomorrow I'll be taken a bit of boost out of the beast, the guys that did the head must of fixed a suspected leak I thought I had so will back it off fro 25psi ay 100mph to about 15psi at 110 mph or Hume hwy running, then fiddle with Dawes as suggested by @mudski, way to much boost for a small motor.
Plus no limp mode either but thats another story. Will let yo know how I go
Last edited by threedogs; 20th May 2018 at 06:31 AM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Yeh (in my case), slightest vacuum leak can have large impact on spool/boost especially running high boost levels.
Saw this recently, had a stage 3 turbo fitted and tune(running 22-23 maxB), the the guys replaced my Dawes with a Tillix but used a vac hose with too large a ID to suit the vac filter. Vac leak and caused lose of boost hauling(egts high) and lack of spool response/pwr low down(laggy). Traveled 350ks home, found leak, repaired got instant improvement but needs another tune (FOChg of course).
Last edited by Bidja; 19th May 2018 at 04:46 PM.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
Thursday, had ECPT do a follow up dyno tune and to provide more fuel low down for improved spool for 4 & 5th gear to match up with new procharge stage 3 turbo running Max B 22psi.
Today, doing final adjustment to the actuator rod length with good result. Achieved improved linear spool/pwr response thru rev range (>1800 rpm). Max boost >21 psi in 1st 2nd 3rd gears from 1800rpm in 4th and 5th from 2000 rpm, can produce and hold max torque >370N-m from 1800rpm in all gears under load condition....Running full NADS, Tillix/needle, Fabwitz 3" complete SS induction sys (air box to throttle body).
Hwy run <11.5 lt/100kms from Nth of Sydney to ACT doing mostly 110kph and acceptable EGTs. Dyno max result 122kW (163rwhp) / 378 N-m.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
Finally washed it. Looks good in low light. I’d love to give it a new coat of jam...IMG_0699.JPG
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Bidja (16th June 2018), Hodge (9th June 2018), Plasnart (9th June 2018), Sir Roofy (13th June 2018), Yeti's Beast (9th June 2018)
No you wouldn’t . As it is you take it anywhere & enjoy it as it should be enjoyed , as do I with mine , if it got a coat of paint you’d be hesitant on some tracks / over grown etc .
Bidja (16th June 2018)
Stripped the TB42 twin pot brakes down to run a kit thru them before installing next weekend. Took me 2 hours to get one of the pistons out, and there is corrosion towards the pad end of the piston that looks like its pitted the seal surface, too bad to ignore so off to buy 4 pistons on Monday. Seems Nissan is the only option at this time as nothing else on line at the moment?
Word of warning people when using compressed air to extend the pistons - you end up with a high velocity slug if you are not careful - nursing a very sore finger that got in the way as one piston let loose.
MudRunnerTD (17th June 2018)
PeeBee (17th June 2018)
OK, drivers side front end seals, brgs and TB42 twin pot calipers in. Did the complete overhaul per Darrens excellent instruction set. Had a few issues. The first one was the hub bearing spanner - bought this 15 yrs ago and never used it, my patrol has the GU wheel brg nuts. Bloody spigots were too big for the lock nut, so a quick dash down to Patrola part, and decided to change out the nuts, lock washer and screws, plus buy a spanner that fits.
Had a nightmare getting the small brgs off the spigots - the top and bottom knuckle brgs - totally siezed, could not shift them even with a 10 t hydraulic sykes puller, so ended up grinding out the side to weaken the brg and they came out ok.
Unsure about my torque settings for seating the wheel brgs though, set a brand spanking torque wrench to 145ft lbs per the notes and never made it click, but brgs locked right up. backed them off and rotated wheel to loosen then borrowed a neighbours TW and same again, never reached 145. Anyway, have followed the instructions but compared to the other side of the car the wheel brg assy is a fair bit stiffer. Looks like I wont get this completed this weekend, so passenger side will be done next week over a couple of nights.