Timing cover and backing plate removal

[Ben-e-boy]

Visually it looks fine. I've had 2 mates who are mechanics look at it and say there's nothing wrong with it but didn't do anything other than look at it.

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I still think it should be replaced, the rubber 25 ish years old. I will also harp on about this for some time until I am unequivocally proved wrong
You have a said few times when it comes to vibration from your trailing arm bush style engine mounts, that it is pretty ordinary,

[Winnie]

I still think it should be replaced, the rubber 25 ish years old. I will also harp on about this for some time until I am unequivocally proved wrong
You have a said few times when it comes to vibration from your trailing arm bush style engine mounts, that it is pretty ordinary,

Yeah but before I put those engine mounts in I had no vibrations at all and it was smooth as. I am thinking about swapping them out and seeing how it goes.

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[Ben-e-boy]

I'll shut up it about it if you take a detailed pic of it for me.

[AB]

Sorry Winnie..lol..

[Winnie]

I'll shut up it about it if you take a detailed pic of it for me.

.

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[nissannewby]

I would be changing it.

[Ben-e-boy]

You can see little cracks in the top pic.
The pully needs to come off to check the rest of the rubber aswell

Here is one I prepared earlier. It is cracked pretty bad from about 9 o'clock to 2 o'clock and it continues around to about 6 o'clock.

20150219_144106.jpg

[dom14]

I still think it should be replaced, the rubber 25 ish years old. I will also harp on about this for some time until I am unequivocally proved wrong
You have a said few times when it comes to vibration from your trailing arm bush style engine mounts, that it is pretty ordinary,

Is this something that only applies to Diesel engines? Mine's over 25 years old as well.

[Ben-e-boy]

No it is every motor that has a rubber harmonic balancer/damper. Whatever you want to call it. The rubber is there to obsorb it. It wont do it if it is cracked, fatigued or brittle.

I only take the TD balancers very seriously because harmonic imbalance fatigues the crank and then torque turns it into a 2 piece unit. With many of us taking the power and torque output to 200% and more, and snapping cranks becoming a fairly common occurrence. I think the $75 for a new unit isnt a bad idea.

I have a spare t motor crank in my shed wrapped up and linished ready to. I get asked once or twice a month if I want to sell it. The answer is always no because I will need it for my self one day.

[MudRunnerTD]

Got the front of my engine stripped down a bit this weekend, I am doing it to fix a water leak.
Over the next couple of days after work I will pull off the front timing cover and when I can get my mechanic mate to guide me I will remove the timing gears, IP and backing plate so I can get to the rest of the O rings and gaskets.

Is there anything else I should replace or check while I am this far in?



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Hey Winnie, a very timely thread for me. I need to replace that long bolt that holds the thermostat on that i snapped when i swapped things over. This afternoon i was trying to take the housing off and i cant figure if i have a phantom bolt i cant find holding the thing on or not. I think maybe the snapped bolt may be pinning it looking at your pic there. The broken bolt is the right side of the water pump housing i think. Can you post a pic of the thermostat housing from the other way mate. The factory manual doesn't really offer another angle either and doesn't detail that long bolt other than torque settings. Cheers mate