Boost Guidance Needed GU CRD- Progressing thru NADS

[mudski]

Run #3 yesterday, snowed here @ 620m and adjusted boost amongst the falling flakes. Started off Boost max 22psi /18psi cruise and went very well. Would run higher but took note of info re: max 25psi turbo limit). Wound back to a max boost 21psi and 14psi @ 100kph (slight load) ran very well eng seemed to like it and no gauge needle bounce (may close needle a little more). EGTs after eng working for 1hr: idle (700rpm) 200 degC, cruise 14psi @100ks 325 degC and max boost slight load 21psi @110kph 375degC. No limp anytime throughout adjustments.

What do think, Max Boost OK or bring it back (thinking of turbo)?
Any advice or lessons learnt on high boost levels and their effect on low range work?

Trust you wired up that broken exhaust brkt, thanks for you time mate.

Seems you on the money there mate. I would leave as is if your happy with how it goes. Now if you want to experiment more, play around with max boost levels and cruise boost level in relation to EGT's. Just to note, say what an extra psi or two at max and also at cruise would do to the EGT's? But I think your on the sweet spot personally.

And my exhaust bracket is just the same, the Patrol hasn't moved since finding it.

[BigRAWesty]

Righto so the crd doesnt limp with quick spool up rate like the old di did. Nor does it limp if going over boost for a bit.
But its a combination of boost and fuel over a set period of 11 seconds..
I ran 18psi max to start.
When big hills came limp mode come to as it couldnt keep the fuel up to high boost..
Drop to 16 psi and same thing.
15 and its good.
Imo the needle will stuff with dawes if you have it open to much and 1/4 start point off the limit screw is way to much, no wonder it was laggy as hell.
You want the arm to literally just move off the screw stopper.
But to set max boost close the needle completely.
So 18 might be fine for you around town but it may limp also when you really start haulung it for long periods..

I now dont run a needle. Just the tillix (same as dawes).
My boost use to be 15psi @ 100kmh with factory setup and if i tried to get anything less with the needle valve it was to laggy down low, as youve found out..
This is due to my car being 3t daily..

So imo close the needle valve, set max boost (rev out to 3500rpm for max boost)
Once your happy then open the needle untill the turbo arm just floats off the adjustment screw..
This should give you a 2-3 psi drop while cruzing..
Imo any more and its laggy down low and cruzing egts are to high as the ecu is off setiing boost with fuel to get the power needed..

[Bidja]

When big hills came limp mode come to as it couldnt keep the fuel up to high boost..

bigguwesty - Read your message when I got home last night from a drive up the mnts. Some long hauls and limp came into the picture big time.. Heaps of adjustments latter to get it as good as I could by staying above 18psi. Ended up 19psi max and cruise 12psi - slight load (handled limp OK but sluggish when revs were down and loaded up). EGT reaching 500 degC when moving out and working. Easy hwy driving performs good but not right for me..

On way home was thinking of removing needle... Before removing needle will attempt further adjustment method as:

[QUOTE]So imo close the needle valve, set max boost (rev out to 3500rpm for max boost)
Once your happy then open the needle untill the turbo arm just floats off the adjustment screw..
This should give you a 2-3 psi drop while cruzing../QUOTE]

What max boost (15psi)?

By the way, with only tillix what is your setup?

[BigRAWesty]

[QUOTE=Bidja;739006]bigguwesty - Read your message when I got home last night from a drive up the mnts. Some long hauls and limp came into the picture big time.. Heaps of adjustments latter to get it as good as I could by staying above 18psi. Ended up 19psi max and cruise 12psi - slight load (handled limp OK but sluggish when revs were down and loaded up). EGT reaching 500 degC when moving out and working. Easy hwy driving performs good but not right for me..

On way home was thinking of removing needle... Before removing needle will attempt further adjustment method as:

So imo close the needle valve, set max boost (rev out to 3500rpm for max boost)
Once your happy then open the needle untill the turbo arm just floats off the adjustment screw..
This should give you a 2-3 psi drop while cruzing../QUOTE]

What max boost (15psi)?

By the way, with only tillix what is your setup?

Youll find that 15-16 is the max the ecu will allow on hills etc.
Itll last for a bit but once that time limit is reached and the fuel cant be matched itll throw to limp and kill the fuel input..
So imo wind back to 16 see how it goes, with the needle valve shut.
The crd doesnt limp with quick spool up so you wont have issues with fast spool up.
If it goes into limp still at 16 psi drop back to 15psi.
Im at 15 max and can do the adleiade hills in 5th no issues now.
Tbh i noticed no loss of power going from 18 to 15psi as there was no fuel to match it..

Once your happy with a max boost level that isnt limping then crack open the needle valve to reduce your cruzing boost a bit.

My setup is yea needle less now.
My car is a lard ass lol weighing in at 3t daily.
So i found that for the needle to have any effect it had to be open so much that ut made take off laggy as hell..
So with a max of 15psi its at max when cruzing at 100kmh i get 13lph.
Im hapoy with that..
Drop to 90 it drops to 14 psi and if i drop to 80kmh it drops to 12psi..

[Bidja]

Youll find that 15-16 is the max the ecu will allow on hills etc.
Itll last for a bit but once that time limit is reached and the fuel cant be matched itll throw to limp and kill the fuel input..
So imo wind back to 16 see how it goes, with the needle valve shut.
The crd doesnt limp with quick spool up so you wont have issues with fast spool up.
If it goes into limp still at 16 psi drop back to 15psi.
Im at 15 max and can do the adleiade hills in 5th no issues now.
Tbh i noticed no loss of power going from 18 to 15psi as there was no fuel to match it..

Once your happy with a max boost level that isnt limping then crack open the needle valve to reduce your cruzing boost a bit..

bigguwesty thanks, All good now.
Firstly, chasing the early high boost values gave me an appreciation of what poor performance was about especially when down low - valued lessons learnt)...

With needle closed found boost max of 15.5 (calibrated eye) @ 3500rpm and no limping. Then needle still closed pulled up a hill that is being redressed with a dirt/shale mix & was heavy going and very loose (H4wd / 4th gear max loading) similar to driving in loose sand. No limp. Out on main rd (sealed), Cracked opened needle to where turbo arm just moved off (0.95 turns on needle spindle "ref only"), 12.0 psi at cruise @ 100kph, and boost max 15psi. Under load pulled extremely well and with good accel. One hill/long hall, in the past before any NADS eng would struggle in 4th, now can pull/accelerate in 4th and dropped it into 5th near top. No complaints. To throw in a variable, closed off the needle 1/2 an increment further (ref 0.9 turns now) got the same max boost 15psi and now 13psi cruise boost @ 100kph. Left it at these settings (may play further). Cannot complain eng very responsive, good acceleration and great low down performance. ETs at cruise can run under but mainly at 300/325 - 375 degC load dependant and when moving out solid working/long hauls can push 480 degC. Oil pressure 380 kPa fairly consistent thru out whilst driving.

My Veh has Steel B/Bar, elec winch, steel side rails/steps. Millweld rear steel bar (6mm) with spare wheel dual jerry with axe in behind. Spare whl steel rim 17x8" and tucked behind a highlift jack (near 150kg out back). 3/4 arb steel roof rack and rear draws/fridge.

Adjustments were so positive and achieved stable boost readings, must say thanks mate and I was wondering when my bonnet hold up stick was going to wear out with all the use with valve adjustments yesterday. My needle valve will stay.

In a past life all I had to do was adjust the rack in the inj pump and it gave more juice (b series Dsl 4cyl).

[BigRAWesty]

bigguwesty thanks, All good now.
Firstly, chasing the early high boost values gave me an appreciation of what poor performance was about especially when down low - valued lessons learnt)...

With needle closed found boost max of 15.5 (calibrated eye) @ 3500rpm and no limping. Then needle still closed pulled up a hill that is being redressed with a dirt/shale mix & was heavy going and very loose (H4wd / 4th gear max loading) similar to driving in loose sand. No limp. Out on main rd (sealed), Cracked opened needle to where turbo arm just moved off (0.95 graduations on needle spindle "ref only"), 12.0 psi at cruise @ 100kph, and boost max 15psi. Under load pulled extremely well and with good accel. One hill/long hall, in the past before any NADS eng would struggle in 4th, now can pull/accelerate in 4th and dropped it into 5th near top. No complaints. To throw in a variable, closed off the needle 1/2 an increment further (ref 0.9 now) got the same max boost 15psi and now 13psi cruise boost @ 100kph. Left it at these settings (may play further). Cannot complain eng very responsive, good acceleration and great low down performance. ETs at cruise can run under but mainly at 300/325 - 375 degC load dependant and when moving out solid working/long hauls can push 480 degC. Oil pressure 380 kPa fairly consistent thru out whilst driving.

My Veh has Steel B/Bar, elec winch, steel side rails/steps. Millweld rear steel bar (6mm) with spare wheel dual jerry with axe in behind. Spare whl steel rim 17x8" and tucked behind a highlift jack (near 150kg out back). 3/4 arb steel roof rack and rear draws/fridge.

Adjustments were so positive and achieved stable boost readings, must say thanks mate and I was wondering when my bonnet hold up stick was going to wear out with all the use with valve adjustments yesterday. My needle valve will stay.

In a past life all I had to do was adjust the rack in the inj pump and it gave more juice (b series Dsl 4cyl).

Glad i could assist and get you sorted.
Yea the manual boost give a far better boost curve compaired to stock ecu.
If you had gauge on with stock ecu you may have seen how much it surges, and the ecu is not only trying to control that max with a slow actuator but its also trying to match fuel load for that boost and rpm level..
So really its go no fkn hope lol as when it adds more fuel it gets more boost so its forever chasing its tail..

Also yea the needle valve is touch as hell.
I maked mine with a scribe before i started because 1/8 of a turn can be to much for it.
Imo 13psi at 100kmh is a good amount.

[sooty]

Hey fellas
I'm just setting up Dawes and needle valves and just wondering if the cruise boost level at 100 km/hr is meant to be in 4 th gear ,
Cause I'm struggling to reach 10 psi in 5 th. My max level is at 17 psi

[Bidja]

sooty, my experience is with crd what do you have?

[sooty]

2016 crd mate

[Bidja]

Sooty, assuming your IC is good. You should have read this thread, especially from when bigguwesty started giving me advice (helped me heaps).

OK, I first ran max boost up around 18-20 psi but experienced limp on solid hill climbs.

Guess you might be opening up your needle to reduce limp and subsequently your cruise boost is dropping low and it is very laggy. Found the max boost above 16psi resulted in limp on long hauls up hill.

Start again with your set up. Try closing your needle, go for a drive and adjust dawes for max boost 16 psi @ 3500rpm, do a bit of a hill haul and if you get limp, close dawes gradually say 15.5 psi and then if needed to 15psi and lock dawes when no limp occurs. Once your happy with max boost setting (dawes) then open the needle at idle revs until the turbo arm just floats off the adjustment screw..
This should give you a 2-3 psi drop while cruzing @ 100kph with slight load. Then adjust your needle by screwing it in by say 0.5 spindle graduation increments to where you feel you have good spool up and response rate whilst driving. Remember don’t touch the dawes setting after you are happy with max boost. That should be good for you.

My set up: max boost (dawes only adjustment/closed needle) is 15.5 psi @3500 rpm (no limp). Needle valve at idle was initially opened to 0.95 of a turn to get the turbo arm to just move (float) off the adjustment screw. Then driving under various load conditions ended up closing the needle a little more and locked at 0.8 of a turn on needle thimble. These setting provide good spool up, response rate and no limp to date. Each eng will vary slightly from each other. Max boost 15psi and cruise boost of 13 psi at 100kph slight load 5th gear.