EGR - fault code

[Orsm6]

Hello everyone.

I've found a few posts discussing some similar issues but I don't think it is answering my question.

History:
A few months ago the check engine light came on and lost all power, assumed limp mode. Scan tool at the mecahnics said basically it was the airflow sensor, I got another (unfortunately not OEM) and everything was fine for a while. Then recently I started experiencing overboost and when driving through gears I'd normally always hit limp mode at about 2-2500 rpm in 3rd/4th gear (same at 110kmph), give the throttle a blip then all good. Then the engine light has started coming on recently and only a few minutes after starting the car and would stay on. I purchased a MAF from repco (hitachi brand) and the car doesn't seem to hit limp mode... but the engine light keeps coming on. Got out my Haynes manual and bridged pins 1 & 8 on the plug to clear the code. This worked, but the very next time i drove the car... engine light. So again with bridging the pins, when i did this i got the code 1003 (ten flashes then 3). when i googled for some info i found that code 1003 is: EGR volume Control Valve circuit malfunction, EGR volume control valve failure.

so currently while accelating through gears: i don't seem to get limp mode. Watching the boost gauge it hits 20psi and holds til gear changes or sometimes it hits 20 and 'bounces' until i get to cruising speed.

Has anyone experienced this before? any suggestions?
Ask a silly question. will an overdue oil change cause grief? oil that is too thin or something?

The car:
- 2001 ST 3.0L.
- Has dawes/needle valve and EGR plate. (boost set to aroun 17psi, needle valve pretty much has vnt wide open)
- A safari Dtronic chip has been fitted (i think i got that correct).
- The exhaust is 3" (no idea on EGTs)
- catch can is fitted (pre-issues)
- from what i can see, all boost lines, hoses and connections are OK

Previously not had any issues like this since buying the car.

hopefully i have covered everything

[BigRAWesty]

It could be the chip fighting the dawes..
Have you had the car tuned to suit both setups and they are working together..
But imo the only maf to use unfortunately is ome..
Others seem to not last as long or do cause issues.
So maybe start with an ome maf (not cheap so be seated when asking for price).
As for over boosting adjust the dawes a bit..
Best to set max boost in 3rd gear. Start around 1500 rpm and foot to the floor right threw to 3500 rpm.
Trying to set max boost in and around streets is a pita..
If your hitting 20 psi and it's holding then That's your max boost and may need bringing down a bit..
If it hits 20 for a second before settling at 17 then that's fine.

[Orsm6]

Thanks for the reply mate. The MAF sensor i bought from repco was $270. so i am hoping like hell one from Nissan isn't any worse.

A mate mentioned the possibility the diesel chip could be an issue. Is it likely though that you have to tune it everytime you get a new MAF sensor? seems weird.
Not sure how to set the max boost as you descibed, unless its done on a dyno, could look into it. I could wind back the valve a fraction as i had noticed the lock nut loosened on me recently and it may not be back in the exact same spot.

It'll hit 20 psi for as long as it takes til i get off the pedal to change gear. when at crusing it sits around 15-17 so i'll have another look after looking at the dawes valve.


Still the question remains, why would a check engine light be thrown for the EGR?

[Orsm6]

just noticed you're in the mount too

[BigRAWesty]

Thanks for the reply mate. The MAF sensor i bought from repco was $270. so i am hoping like hell one from Nissan isn't any worse.

A mate mentioned the possibility the diesel chip could be an issue. Is it likely though that you have to tune it everytime you get a new MAF sensor? seems weird.
Not sure how to set the max boost as you descibed, unless its done on a dyno, could look into it. I could wind back the valve a fraction as i had noticed the lock nut loosened on me recently and it may not be back in the exact same spot.

It'll hit 20 psi for as long as it takes til i get off the pedal to change gear. when at crusing it sits around 15-17 so i'll have another look after looking at the dawes valve.


Still the question remains, why would a check engine light be thrown for the EGR?

Dam. Well maybe leave that untill last then.. you'd hope it'll be quality for that price..

So yea 20 psi is your max, this is set with the dawes valve. The needle valve determines spool up rate and cruze boost pressure..
To me I'd say drop your dawes a bit, but chip could be fighting it..
Imo remove the chip, set dawes right and then go from there..

And no the maf shouldn't change the tune if it's running correctly to start with.

just noticed you're in the mount too

Happy to assist if you need mate..
I've just done a tillix (same as dawes) setup on my 08 crd..
Shoot me a pm if you like.

[Orsm6]

Guys, just updating some info here.

I am damn certain I am not going mad here... however, you kind of get to know how your car behaves and shit, well this check engine EGR code fault is still ongoing. I haven't yet checked anything but, I have noticed that when i pull up e.g. at traffic lights the engine revs take several seconds to slowly lower to normal idle speed. I am certain that it is only when the engine light has been coming on, normally when i pull up the engine drops to idle very very quickly.

any one experienced this?

[threedogs]

Have you been disconnecting your battery at all ,eg while changing your MAF sensor.
Point being the ECU will retain old values[memory] I disconnect for 1/2hr when cleaning the maf.
that will re-set the ECU
Engine light may mean dirty fuel filters

EDIT::: The chip will have nothing to do with your Dawes set up
reason being the chip controls thing electronically and your Dwes set up
with the EGR blocked means the turbo and boost is managed by the exhaust
Hope I got thet right,,,lol

[Orsm6]

Hey guys, turns out there was a broken wire to the egr valve that had been soldered before. Problem gone.