Long Range Petrol tank access issue

[Throbbinhood]

The stock sender isn't that accurate. The dial doesn't start moving until half a tank or so.

My LRA tank act's as a sub. I wired it into the original gauge with a switch, idea being to switch between the tanks, but it's never been accurate. I just wait until I'm at 1/4 on the main tank and then start the transfer, not that that helps you much. From what I've read, and I could be wrong, the sender works off an ohm reading or resistance or something. Since modifying my wiring (adding the switch), my main tank reads slightly lower than normal. If what I've read is correct, I'm guessing I've added more resistance using the switch and crimps/joins. At a guess, yours may suffer from the same inaccuracy if your wiring has been cut/joined etc. Hope someone that knows a bit more about the fuel gauges in these could advise further as I'm honestly not 100%.

[Yendor]

The stock sender isn't that accurate. The dial doesn't start moving until half a tank or so.
It could be the dial itself is faulty.
I reckon I find out soon.

The RB30 being carby runs a different electric fuel pump to the TB42E. Both pressure and flow rate will be much lower. Hopefully the RB30 guru (no not you Dom lol) mudnut knows what the specs are.

If funds allow I would stick with the internal fuel pump.

You need to get the old unit out first and inspect. There should be a sock on the end of the pick up that may have started to break down and causing blockage or possibly you might have a connection problem inside the tank.

If you do decide to go the external pump root you will need to remove the internal pump and extent the pickup.

Fuel gauge accurately is never true when aftermarket tanks are used. They use the original fuel sender unit and just extended it. This normally causes the first half of the tank to be inaccurate.

[Bigcol]

The stock sender isn't that accurate. The dial doesn't start moving until half a tank or so.
It could be the dial itself is faulty.
I reckon I find out soon.

the sender wont be accurate , as it is the sender from the Main tank (at the rear)

they have used the original pump & sender in your LRA tank, and added to the wiring from the rear

now, under the mats and shyte in the rear, there is an inspection hole / cover where the "normal" pump / sender would be - you can access the wiring from there (as your Gas tank is in the way
cut all the joints out
solder the connections
no more electrical problems there

take tank out - as has been suggested - rear first (after you have dismantled all the plumbing for the fuel, and got it out of the way)
take pump / sender out and check for damage, dirt, etc, also check if there is any electrical fault there
worse case scenario - wreckers for a new OEM pump / sender - IMHO - the best option

if you fit an aftermarket pump - you may have to run another fuel line back to the tank for excess (like the TB42's have) if your RB dont have it already

with your tank, it is similar, but not quite the same as the one that was in my GQ - my hose was on the wheel side, so I could access it if I took the wheel off
doms tank.JPG

[Bigcol]

forgot to add - with my sender, it only registered when it was full.............
once you used about 1/4 of a tank - it stopped working

I, like you
took the tank out, and tried to adjust it

got it to work from 1/4 tank to empty after that.....................
nothing above 1/4 tank though

hahahahahahaha

[dom14]

The RB30 being carby runs a different electric fuel pump to the TB42E. Both pressure and flow rate will be much lower. Hopefully the RB30 guru (no not you Dom lol) mudnut knows what the specs are.

For a mirco second, my ego exploded. Then it got flushed in the next micro second.

If funds allow I would stick with the internal fuel pump.

Brand new ones are pretty dear. It's not the price alone. I'm also worried about outback failure of the pump.
No LPG there and if it decides to fail in the middle of nowhere I might end up being stranded.
Having said that, I can always carry an el cheapo external pump with couple of meters of fuel hose & hook it up to a jerry can at the front of the vehicle.

You may be right. I may be overthinking a tad. But, even if I don't get stranded, the factory pump is really a biatch to get to 'cos of the location of the tank. I'm hoping to fix the old one, if it's got too much gunk or an electrical fault.

You need to get the old unit out first and inspect. There should be a sock on the end of the pick up that may have started to break down and causing blockage or possibly you might have a connection problem inside the tank.

If you do decide to go the external pump root you will need to remove the internal pump and extent the pickup.

I'm onto it. I'll post the outcome soon.
Whatever I do, I will do it in a way that I'll never have to lower the tank again.
It's an absolutely PITA job under the car to get to it. I can't imagine myself doing all this work on the side of the road.

Fuel gauge accurately is never true when aftermarket tanks are used. They use the original fuel sender unit and just extended it. This normally causes the first half of the tank to be inaccurate.

Thanx mate. I think I'll leave the fuel gauge. It's not critical atm. I usually rely on trip meter or the gps unit to count the distance and get an idea that way. 'Cos I have a multi-tank lpg setup, but only one LPG gauge for one tank, I always rely on the trip meter to keep on track.

[dom14]

forgot to add - with my sender, it only registered when it was full.............
once you used about 1/4 of a tank - it stopped working

I, like you
took the tank out, and tried to adjust it

got it to work from 1/4 tank to empty after that.....................
nothing above 1/4 tank though

hahahahahahaha

Yeah, same here. I won't bother about the gauge. I've never bothered to look at it anyway.
It's better to keep on track with distance and amount of fuel I pump into it.

[dom14]

My LRA tank act's as a sub. I wired it into the original gauge with a switch, idea being to switch between the tanks, but it's never been accurate. I just wait until I'm at 1/4 on the main tank and then start the transfer, not that that helps you much. From what I've read, and I could be wrong, the sender works off an ohm reading or resistance or something. Since modifying my wiring (adding the switch), my main tank reads slightly lower than normal. If what I've read is correct, I'm guessing I've added more resistance using the switch and crimps/joins. At a guess, yours may suffer from the same inaccuracy if your wiring has been cut/joined etc. Hope someone that knows a bit more about the fuel gauges in these could advise further as I'm honestly not 100%.

Yeah, probably better off to go for an aftermarket solution if the gauge reading is critical.
On long trips, I always keep track on the amount of fuel I put & the distance. I reckon that's bit safer.

[Yendor]

For a mirco second, my ego exploded. Then it got flushed in the next micro second.



Brand new ones are pretty dear. It's not the price alone. I'm also worried about outback failure of the pump.
No LPG there and if it decides to fail in the middle of nowhere I might end up being stranded.
Having said that, I can always carry an el cheapo external pump with couple of meters of fuel hose & hook it up to a jerry can at the front of the vehicle.

You may be right. I may be overthinking a tad. But, even if I don't get stranded, the factory pump is really a biatch to get to 'cos of the location of the tank. I'm hoping to fix the old one, if it's got too much gunk or an electrical fault.



I'm onto it. I'll post the outcome soon.
Whatever I do, I will do it in a way that I'll never have to lower the tank again.
It's an absolutely PITA job under the car to get to it. I can't imagine myself doing all this work on the side of the road.



Thanx mate. I think I'll leave the fuel gauge. It's not critical atm. I usually rely on trip meter or the gps unit to count the distance and get an idea that way. 'Cos I have a multi-tank lpg setup, but only one LPG gauge for one tank, I always rely on the trip meter to keep on track.

No worries mate...... There's nothing like a pick me up and then a slap me down LOL

How much are the non genuine replacement pumps?

What trip do you have planned in the outback and when are you going?

Yes we both know you over think things

Even if the original pump is stuffed 20 odd years out of it isn't bad.

Does your original fuel gauge in the dash not read at all?

[dom14]

How much are the non genuine replacement pumps?

I haven't been able to locate a one yet. The genuine one on the internet says $800+.
If you know where to locate aftermarket pumps, do let me know.
If I decide to keep the original pump setup, I think it's good idea to keep a spare one.

What trip do you have planned in the outback and when are you going?

Unplanned usually, but mostly around central and north.
I haven't done the Kakadu National Park yet. I'm thinking about going there in about a month, hopefully.
I go for half planned treks and end up going to a different location.
The troll is getting old and has been giving me a fair bit or a cry since last year.
I haven't been to Tassie either. So, hoping to go there as well. Too cold there right now I reckon.

Does your original fuel gauge in the dash not read at all?

Yes, that's the only gauge there, and it doesn't start moving until quarter tank or so, and then suddenly moves too much(from memory). I've never bothered to even look at it.

I got the tank and pump out. I'm just editing the pictures.

[dom14]

These are the tank, fuel line and wiring pictures.