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One of the best & easiest mods Steve,
Next, I would remove your manifold for a check and possible clean-out.
Here's mine before and after..
A small adjustment of your VGT screw is normally required to compensate for blocking the EGR, but best done with at least a boost gauge fitted.
There's loads of stuff on here about this....
So I've noticed the boost coming on stronger earlier and a can actually hear it spooling up now..
But that's all feel.. no gauges yet to actually confirm..
Cheers
Kallen Westbrook
Have you guys noticed the new heads and handles are not as good as the old ones.Originally Posted by steve4377
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
What...the new heads are Craft Handed In Northern Australia. Or as I prefer to call it...Made in CHINA...hehehehe
Yeah will get around to that Daveyboy. Bit warm here at the moment though. I just measured the Tarmac temperature at Onslow Airport (on the ground not in the air) at 60 degrees Celsius. It was a 46 Celsius day but it melts boots. Don't feel like doing mechanical work in those temps!
Cheers guys
Last edited by steve4377; 21st February 2016 at 01:56 AM.
2004 Auto ZD30 wagon - pretty much standard...Just plodding along nicely!
Damn that's hot Steve!
We are due some snow here soon, but gone back to mild, wet and windy for now!
I couldn't believe the coke I chiselled out of my manifold and she is definitely sounding better for it.
I blocked my EGR without Dawes and needle valve. No can do as I found. When EGR opens the ECU winds back the boost to allow the EGR to flow in, which now it can't as it is blocked, your EGTs now climb rapidly as you only have a couple of pound boost. Normally the EGR must come in under pressure, which I guess it is and make up the shortfall in boost, as before blocking you didn't notice boost drop at all.
I would highly recommend some gauges, not necessarily for daily driving then but more so for when performing mods like these you can see the effect. I bought digital gauges, although not cheap, for the fact that they will alarm at presets when something is wrong.
I have blocked EGR but don't have a catch can. From reading it sounds like it is the combination of EGR and oil mist that creates the sludge, so I often wonder that maybe I could have put a catch can on and not blocked the EGR would have got the same result?
Lemo.
2006 GU IV ST 3.0L TD Di
Autron Boost and EGT, Dual Bat, Dawes & Needle Valves, ARB Alloy rack, more to come.
Rock Trol (21st February 2016)
After you fit gauges will you be fitting a Dawes and needle vavle?
suppose it depends on what the gauges say eh
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
As Lemo79 said, you will need to take boost control away from the ECU now that the ERG is blocked. Otherwise you will be running low boost when you least want it.
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
Lemo and Rock Trol you make very valid points. I just went for another run and I believe it perceptible that I have lost boost and had to put the loud pedal further down to the floor as a result of the lower boost. Think I will just remove the blocker. I've already fitted the catch can, so think I'll remove the blocker and leave it at that.
Cheers for some sage advice.
Steve
2004 Auto ZD30 wagon - pretty much standard...Just plodding along nicely!
My 2006 ZD30 had a conniption at 70k--dreaded water leak. When the engine was out we inspected the intake manifold--plenty of crud there even with Provent and low k's.
I now have all the gear-Dawes, EGT, Boost etc. and have the EGR at optimum--if you get my meaning.
There is a product that is sprayed into a vacuum hose to loosen all that stuff--it comes out the exhaust as you rev the motor. Not my liking to put that through the engine.
That should give you a clue how much is blocking manifolds etc and you can make an informed decision on your plate.
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
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