Surly the old TD42 cooling cant be that bad? I've driven mine on a stinking hot day in Perth with the A/C cranking and the gauge sat in its normal spot around 1/2 way.
My GTiR pulsar only has one thermo fan due to the size of the turbo and lack of space and it doesn't overheat even on a hot day.
Maybe just due to the age of them the radiator just needs a good clean??
Been a few posts lately about the "mighty" 4.2 TD overheating or at least getting hot.
Is it a boost issue or over fuelling issue what? I think BA hit the nail on the head with that water
pump he brought, probably gives an extra 40% flow rate easy. ???
Question is of all the 4.2TD owners here GQ and GU who has had over heating issues
at one time or another and what caused it.?
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
It just the nature of the beast. I have the same water pump as BA and mine runs hotter than his still. The oem gauge doesn't move so im not really concerned a great deal. I just watch the temps when towing thats all.
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Was hoping there was a common denominator that might help others.
seems its a combination of a few things,
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
No dramas , flushed the full cooling system when i bought it , internal and external clean of the rad , was towing 3.2 t of boat for a while , also regually tows the van up the beachs at high tide, (soft sand ) towed the van around the outback 5000k in 35 - 40 deg , up cunning ham gap , and toowoomba ranges without issue, will cruise on 110kph all day without blinking an eye ,Originally Posted by threedogs
Yep I'd love a bit more poke ,( especially down low , nature of the beast ) but until the budget extends to a complete rebuild top to bottom as well , it ain't happining !
Stock aside from snorkel , 3in muffed exhaust and 285s
Ps just my experience, like all things it's expectations, and horses for courses !
Also got a bonnet protector as well , arb steel bar and spot lights ☺
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Last edited by gaddy; 16th February 2016 at 03:57 PM.
If ya not using it buy a prius .....
My temps are fine. And I dare say they will stay that way for a long time since I do not intend on towing anything...
My whole cooling system is being completely gutted soon. So full flush, fresh coolant, new hoses, new belts, high flow pump, etc... I half considered the UFI fan, while the whole thing is apart but then found out the price. Hence why I'm still keen to hear the result of this infinity setup. Just want to be a bit pro-active about it ...
2005 TD42TI
besides the 3" straight theu exhaust & the previous owner got it dyno tuned, gained another 10hp so he says, Mine is stock engine wise. 4" lift & 35's & the temp gauge reads 1/3 on the gauge. Comming back from QLD the other week, high 30's Possiably 40 deg heat around coolah & the A/C on, up the hills sitting on 110-120 the temp gauge didn't get past half way & returned super quick once the load was off. At the moment mines good but it only has 67xxx klms.
My ol GQ pushing 22psi lots a fuel & 400000 plus kays & it would get hot, infact Thats why I have the GU. The Q melted 3 pistons! Once I pulled it down it had been cross firing can't remember what cyl, all the precomps were cracked & it had several cracks in the head. I think once they have been really hot a couple of times the damage is done. It would run ok untill it was pushed or loaded up & then it always ran on the upperside of the temp gauge. drove it like that for years but pushed it to hard for to long up a hill. Pyro was on 580 for a fair time & the temp gauge was on the 1st line aswel & it finally gave up.
what I'm getting at ( just my opinion) Is a lot of blokes start having the heat issue then go all out changing this & that,bigger radiator,fan,tune etc etc $$$$$$$ & still to have it run hot. But if it has cracked the head it dosn't bother it untill the engine is stressed. My GU has no fancy anything for the cooling system. Just all original in as new condition. Once one part of it starts to age then I will get heat issues. If I can find & rectify that part before it cracks the head then I reckon it will be right till the next part fails.
I know a lot of blokes find a fix maybe with that $1100 radiator or $600 fan/hub but maybe the head had not cracked & they think that big $$ item fixed their problem. I know a lot of variables come into play as in towing bigger turbo,pump & tunes & I'd say maybe some need that bigger rad or that fan/hub etc as the factory stuff can't cope. I've probably gone the long way about it lol but just wondering how many have cracked heads & don't know it, & those that have spent big $$$ when it may have just been one simple part that they changed last?
Last edited by TuffTD42; 16th February 2016 at 06:36 PM.
The conspiracy theorists were right!
Mine never got hot unless I was towing, regardless of how I was driving it after the mods. Hang a 3.2T van on the back and it got pretty hot going up big hills at speed, and I mean proper big long hills. From here I put in new fluid, hoses, thermostat (standard one), UFI fan and hub and a 3 core copper/brass Rapid Cool radiator, problem solved. Going up the same hills that saw temps skyrocket and me backing off, I can now stay in it.
Cheers Rod
_______________________________________________
Bitumen ...... Another watse of public funds
My Build 2005 TD42TI
When I had my GQ ute it got hot once on the way home from Steep Point on a stinking hot day, I was asleep & woke to an odd engine note, the friend of a friend that was driving said it wouldn't go any faster than 90, he had held it to the floor for around 15 minutes. I took the driving lights off & never had another problem.
Graham
Its a hot topic !
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If ya not using it buy a prius .....
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