Brilliant. Thanks a lot chaps.
Brilliant. Thanks a lot chaps.
Any reason I can't bend the bracket a bit and fit to the handrail bolts?
And what about the floor mounts? How did you deal with those?
You might want to consider that when you get a rated cargo barrier, the top brackets (fixed to the grab handle holes) is actually corrugated so in the event of a sudden stop they straighten slightly to absorb the shock--kinda like air bags. No worries so long as you don't hit anything.
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
Good point Dr Gary.
Think I'll just make the plate!
Sydney mate.
Bummer thought I may have been able to help you out.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Thanks anyway threedogs.![]()
Hi JFF
Just bought a 2nd hand barrier , was thinking bout doing exactly what you have done . After putting the steel plate between the grab handle and the roof , we're the original handle bolts still long enough or are longer bolts required , to allow for the thickness of the steel plate ?
I used longer high tensile 6mm bolts in place of the Philips head originals
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
JoshWA (29th February 2016)