Recommended break-in period for new engine rebuild?

[SiberianPatrol]

What was supposed to be a "simple" head rebuild turned into a complete engine overhaul and rebuild - block rebored, stroked, polished head, new pistons, rings, etc. This is on my 1999 GR (GU) RD28Ti. Now with the complete rebuild, is there a recommended break-in period for the new motor? Are there certain things I should and should not do during the break-in time? This will be my first time breaking in a new diesel as all of my other vehicles have been petrol, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[threedogs]

Change your oil after 100 ks and never hold it at high revs.

[SiberianPatrol]

Change your oil after 100 ks and never hold it at high revs.

What would be considered high revs for the RD28Ti? The sweet spot is in the 2000rpm+ range with shift points close to 3000rpm. Is it ok to rev up to 3k and shift, just don't hold it in the 3k+ range?

[threedogs]

Never hold any revs at one point for any period of time always vary the rev range.
after 500k start to redline in a few gears again never holding it, run it in the way you
would drive normally, dont give a small rev then turn the motor off big no no IMO

[BigRAWesty]

When we had truck engines over hauled it was as what TD said..
Drop the oil at 1000k, don't baby it but don't hammer it..
And always let the engine get up to temp each time for the first 1000k..
Our engines use to go for well over a million k's so I think the simplest method is the best..

[SiberianPatrol]

Never hold any revs at one point for any period of time always vary the rev range.
after 500k start to redline in a few gears again never holding it, run it in the way you
would drive normally, dont give a small rev then turn the motor off big no no IMO

When we had truck engines over hauled it was as what TD said..
Drop the oil at 1000k, don't baby it but don't hammer it..
And always let the engine get up to temp each time for the first 1000k..
Our engines use to go for well over a million k's so I think the simplest method is the best..

Thanks for the feedback, mates. Picked it up from the shop yesterday and after driving a bit, noticed a slight fuel leak from the top of the #4&5 injectors. A quick trip back to the shop and all the copper washers replaced under the fuel rail and everything is tight and dry now. Ran it a bit more (~50km) and everything seems great. Kept the shift point around 2800-3000rpm with EGTs staying about 2-300C post turbo. I had one incident when climbing a hill where the EGTs climbed to 450-500C before I backed off. Is it critical to keep the EGTs in a certain range during this break-in period?

[dom14]

What was supposed to be a "simple" head rebuild turned into a complete engine overhaul and rebuild - block rebored, stroked, polished head, new pistons, rings, etc. This is on my 1999 GR (GU) RD28Ti. Now with the complete rebuild, is there a recommended break-in period for the new motor? Are there certain things I should and should not do during the break-in time? This will be my first time breaking in a new diesel as all of my other vehicles have been petrol, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

When cold starting, let the engine warm up for five minutes or so on idle, before taking off.
It's a very good habit on any engine, rebuilt or not.

[SiberianPatrol]

When cold starting, let the engine warm up for five minutes or so on idle, before taking off.
It's a very good habit on any engine, rebuilt or not.

For sure - the engine always warms up first. Especially here in Siberia I have a pre-start circulation heater to bring the engine up to temp before I even crank it.


1999 GU RD28Ti; mechanical injector pump, 5kBt Webasto circulation heater, 33" Yokohama Geolander I/T, SaaS boost & EGT gauges, 2" Ironman suspension...more to come