Agree... ^^^^
If you block EGR with a 2 3/4 or 3 inch exhaust then you will need to tweak the VNT or fit a Dawes.
I fit EGT not for limiting but so that I can monitor what any mods or adjustments are actually doing IE did I get a real world change or is it just a placebo/imagination.
Mine was chipped, tweaked, blocked and had exhaust and I/C mods because as I mentioned I tinker A LOT but for just a few standard mods I agree with R.T. in that it is not a big need.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
Thinking on it its probably good to get a dawes valve if you block the EGR as the ECU drops the boost when it opens the EGR valve. This is to allow the exhaust gas to enter otherwise the higher boost in the intake manifold will leak into the exhaust. Since its blocked it will be beneficial to take control away from the ECU.Originally Posted by the evil twin
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
well i decided to bit the bullet - fitter the Boost and EGT gauges, catch can , new inter cooler, blocker the EGR, and a Inter cooler fan
Results - running 100 deg lower at 110kmh
Boost maxing out at 18 PSI, but spooling up earlier - feels better to drive (not dawes or boost control fitted)
And i was very shocked at how much oil was in the old inter cooler and pipework before i fitter the new one.
here's the pics ....
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Current - 2011 GUVII 3.0 CRD
Previous - 2004 GUIV 3.0DI "The Grenade" Literally ...
100 LC V8, 150 D4 Prado, 200 Series V8D .... and a Discovery D2V8 in between ... what was i thinking?
This is so true. I read and speak with so many people and they say you don't need the NAD's, particularly the dawes and needle valve on a CRD. They are 100% right. But if you want you car to go even better why wouldn't you. As for over boosting. Not to worry, its not the overboosting that kills the lil'3ltrs, its underboosting. thanks to the marvelous effort of the ECU especially in the Di's. under boosting ='s too much fuel and not enough air which ='s extremely high cylinder temps which ='s melting pistons and cracked heads.
The CRD's are o.k with the ECU though, so no worry there.
jack180 (8th October 2015), the evil twin (8th October 2015)
.jpg "Ibbo's Avatar")
Thanks for all the useful information in this thread.
I have a 2010 CRD and had been experiencing a similar dilemma to jack180. I have bought the scangauge which i have found very useful. No mods and boost rarely gets over 15psi - this seems to be the roof where the ECU cuts it out. I have not been using the water temp gauge function but sounds like i probably should.
I have just ordered a safari snorkel for it to make sure i have clean air going in. I was planning on getting a 3 in exhaust next but sounds like i maybe should get the dawes and needle valve at the same time (and probably do the EGR block while i'm at it)?
I would be confident tackling the exhaust and EGR block myself but sounds like the dawes and needle valve is something that should be fitted and adjusted by someone far more mechanically minded than myself. So might need to wait and do some more saving
If you buy a pipe, there is a good chance you will see limp mode, which is an overboost safety function. So if you can stretch it, get the dawes and needle valve at the same time. And block the egr too....
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Ibbo (19th October 2015)
Well a bit of an update.
After a few weeks of driving im pretty happy with the results. I did modify my catch can and made a baffle inside it. Its catching oil well now.
With the EGR blocked, new IC and IC fan I'm seeing lower EGTs - especially at highway speed.
I'm sticking with the standard exhaust, therefore im not going to install a dawes.
Ive been toying with fitting a snorkel. - I like the peace of mind for water crossings (not that i do that many), but I've hear a lot of horror stories about the CRDs using a lot more fuel once the snorkel is fitted.
I'm guessing the MAF gets a bit tricked and changes the fuel input?
Anyone else experience this?
Ive got 2 mates than have fitted snorkels to the CRD, and both went from about 11-12L/100 - to 15 to 18L/100
I'm not keen on that.
Current - 2011 GUVII 3.0 CRD
Previous - 2004 GUIV 3.0DI "The Grenade" Literally ...
100 LC V8, 150 D4 Prado, 200 Series V8D .... and a Discovery D2V8 in between ... what was i thinking?
Yeah i have just been looking on your ebay store actually and looks like i could have a go at the dawes and needle valve and EGR block myself for a reasonable price. I did get lost on the extra fittings required to get the boost to the dawes valve. Might just PM you to find out what i need.
No that doesn't sound great - will let you know what happens with mine when i get it fitted next week. sounds like computer might need some tweaking if that is the case.
I find that rather odd. I would dare to say their cars run better due to the extra air flow so they might be a bit heavier on the right foot now having that little extra oomf! Having said that have they got a boost gauge or the NAD's fitted? I know that if you have a boost gauge and no NAD's you will see your boost levels fluctuating a fair bit, which will affect fuel eco. Running the NADs will even out the boost fluctuations, make the engine far more responsive and better on fuel. But then you just drive it harder again... :0
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