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Thread: Losing boost..

  1. #31
    Expert mullet_hunter's Avatar
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    Fitted new intercooler and rig still wouldn't boost... Pretty sure it's got something to do with vac system... So went and plugd ports at solanoid and setup Dawes and needle valve... But I can't get it to boost over 10psi... Even wiv Dawes valves right in? Bloody pootrol... Thinking of just getn one of them diesel smart actuators set for 24psi... Is anyone on here running one... I think there like 220 or something but have only herd good feedback... It bypasses the whole factory vacuum system altogether...

  2. #32
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Pull the dawes apart mate and just check the spring and ball to make sure its ok in there. Double check that all hoses and clamps are on good. Which imsure you have done. Also try winding in the needle valve so its closed totally. See what happens when you go for a drive.

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  3. #33
    Expert mullet_hunter's Avatar
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    Ended up getn it to boost... Disconnected battery... Cleaned maf sensor.. Triple checked all hoses and conections... Started bus.. Opened the needle to the actuator arm fell away frm grub screw then adjusted to it went back up n touched the grub screw... Dawes valve is wound right in til there's no more thread... I'm seeing arnd 18psi nw... The 4 inch is sucking in some serious air... And when I turn off the rig it sounds almost like someone's flushing a toilet.. Lol.. Is this normal?

  4. #34
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullet_hunter View Post
    And when I turn off the rig it sounds almost like someone's flushing a toilet.. Lol.. Is this normal?
    That does not sound normal. Also, you should be able to get more than 18psi boost max. Are you running a different intake pipe?
    2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.

  5. #35
    Expert mullet_hunter's Avatar
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    I knw the snorkels are suppose to suck air but mine sucks realy hrd.. Like if I block the inlet of my snorkle wiv my hand there's so much preasure there that u can see the whole airbox flex.. Lol.. It won't stall either it just wnts to keep sucking.. Feels and sounds like those vacumes that are used at the servos to clean ur car... If I open up the needle valve the flush noise goes away but then there's lagy spool up rate.. I have hpd maf housing and billet lid and 4 inch snorkle all the way to airbox... Max boost I've seen is 20... Ideally I want to set arnd 24psi... But I've maxed out Dawes valve?

  6. #36
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    What happens if you run it without the Dawes valve. It's only there to set a ceiling on the boost.
    2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.

  7. #37
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    That sound is just because of the larger id snorkel and tge sound is resonating further up the snorkel. The flushing sound via the needle valve is air being sucked through the needle valve back toward the intake. Im not so sure the sound should be something to worry about. Your snorkel is larger, metal and round. The intake sound will be different for sure.
    What air filter are you running?

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  8. #38
    Expert mullet_hunter's Avatar
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    it use to boost upto 27psi.. (ecu controlled) then it just started boosting to arnd 5psi..and gradually upto 10-15psi... if i would put my foot down boost would drop to 0... really weird.. i thought it must had been leaking intercooler not holding boost so replaced and still same problem.. losing boost.. so thought id go back to manual boost control wiv dawes and needle valve but for some reason the dawes valve is limiting max boost to around 18-20psi... drives good but far from what it use to go like with the higher boost? i guess most would be happy wiv it.. spools and drives hard.. but it feels like it doesn't have the bigger power band it use to have.. its like after it reaches 3000rpm or 18psi it runs out of puff... as before it use to pull hrd in every gear.. egts rarely went over 300-350..

  9. #39
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    k&n filter...

  10. #40
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    Is the vacuum hose still running through the vacuum solenoid? Maybe its limiting the boost?
    If so, maybe you could try running the hose directly to the needle/dawes valve.
    2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.

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