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Thread: GU1 TD42T cooking 2nd batteries

  1. #11
    Patrol Freak
    FNQGU's Avatar
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    I am told the Calcium batteries handle the engine bay temps the best. I have been monitoring my engine bay temps with a thermo-couple for the last few months, and will see temps ranging from 55 C to 65 C or even 70 C when nearer the turbo. It varies quite a bit from place to place actually, and a lot seems to depend on the ability of the air to escape out of the engine bay, which is usually downwards and under the car. The more air you can get flowing through the engine bay, the lower the air pressure, which in turn assists airflow through the radiator and front grill.

    All advice I have read indicates that batteries simply can't handle those sorts of temperatures for long periods of time. Some will last better than others, but it gets to them all eventually.

    Collyn Rivers has written a bit about it, and has an excellent table in one of his books describing the expected life reduction of a battery with given heat ranges.

    What sort of time frame are you talking about in between each battery?

    I should clarify that I am in Nth Qld and those engine bay temps were normal hot days and taken in locations both beside and above the engine itself, plus on the battery. Temps are often down in the 40's along the firewall on cooler days.
    Last edited by FNQGU; 17th June 2015 at 02:38 PM.
    Between Patrols ATM. Had a beaut GU with 6.5 Chev TD. Next is a GU ute with a 4.5 litre Cummins conversion and a camper on the back.

  2. #12
    Advanced NotTortoise's Avatar
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    The first lasted nearly a year and the next one only 7 months. It was just a basic Century yellow top though

  3. #13
    Patrol Freak
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    Not good. Is your engine overheating? Are there any other indicators of heat issues?

    They aren't just trying to dodge a warranty claim are they?

    Maybe get it load tested at Battery World or some other place and see what they say?
    Between Patrols ATM. Had a beaut GU with 6.5 Chev TD. Next is a GU ute with a 4.5 litre Cummins conversion and a camper on the back.

  4. #14
    Advanced NotTortoise's Avatar
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    I had to send it to Mt Isa as it is a long drive to go for just that. They said that the volts are going up but the cranking amps are not.

    A lot of my driving is open highway for 5-30 hours at a time. I know that I can push it a bit and when I sit on 110ish my EGT are around the mid to high 300s.
    (at the dump pipe.)

    They also said that there is a slight swell in the casing so they are bot going to warranty it.

    The battery before "split", but I wasn't in town to see it.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

  5. #15
    Advanced NotTortoise's Avatar
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    I know that air temps up here are consistently pretty high. We are currently mid to high 30's all day long. Gotta love winter up here ☺

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

  6. #16
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    As far as I know, swelling is caused by over charging. Overcharging create excess hydrogen gas in the battery faster than what the battery can expel it.

  7. #17
    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    sealed batteries have explosion caps on the top, My battery guy will sell any battery I want
    ,but will not fit it, I have since fitted a turbo beanie to keep temps down on the Aux battery side.
    I have noticed that I need to top up the battery less,
    my AUX is a Trojan wet cell 115ah more bang for your buck IMO.
    My start is an AC delco sealed. If worried about under bonnet temps fit some vents.
    but I think its a charging problem.
    what condition are the bushes in the alternator like.
    from past experience if they are only touching on their edges it can cause
    over charging resulting in boiling the battery not something you'd want
    Last edited by threedogs; 18th June 2015 at 09:41 AM.
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

  8. #18
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    All sealed batteries need a vent. As when they are charging they create the gas which needs to go somewhere...

  9. #19
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    Maybe get your alternator checked out as something seems wrong. I take it that your starter is OK?

    I am running an AGM (DEKA) battery under the bonnet of my 3 litre. I am charging it via a Redarc BCC 1220 charger and it has been fine for the last 2.5 years in a variety of temps. It's cool in Adelaide at the moment but gets pretty hot in summer. My alternator starts charging above 14 volt when it starts up but after a while drops off to 13.8 - 13.6 volts as the batteries charge up. Is yours constantly above 14 volts regardless of time? Maybe that's the problem.
    2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.

  10. #20
    Legendary 4bye4's Avatar
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    When you have your headlights on at night, can you see a slight flare (brightening) when you rev the engine. If so you may have a regulator problem in the alternator. As has been suggested by many of us, myself included, 14+ volts is accemtable but shouldn't be at that all the time.
    2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder


    And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.

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