Getting a drive train clunk when turning.

[Rossco]

Yeah and a bit harder to repair than body mounts!

Ooh yes. . . A bit more expensive too i would say.

Yeah pretty much the same as putting in or pulling out body lift. Need to take all bolts out and Jack the body up a little. Not real hard just a bit of a pain.

[Winnie]

Ooh yes. . . A bit more expensive too i would say.

Yeah pretty much the same as putting in or pulling out body lift. Need to take all bolts out and Jack the body up a little. Not real hard just a bit of a pain.

Only took me and a mate about 2 hours to take my body lift out so it's probably a job I should do sooner rather than later....... nah it can wait

[mudnut]

If your gunna do the body mounts, undo the top radiator mounting screws, so you don't flex the radiator when jacking up the front of the body.

[mudnut]

I think it is the diff because I did

a tight U turn and it felt fine

until one of the tyres squealed

a little bit

as the clunk happened.

[Sharky1]

G'day, all.
Recently when I do a right turn at an intersection (sealed road in 2H), there seams to be some slackness in the drive train which gets taken up as I accelerate. It doesn't do it when making a left turn. Any ideas where to start looking for the cause? The engine and gear box mounts are ok.

It sounds like you have 2 separate issues. 1stly, your rear diff is worn & has too much backlash, which is why the "slackness" gets taken up when you accellerate. 2ndly the clunk is most likely your panhard rod- either the bushes or where it mounts onto the chassis. Check that the bolt eyelet on the chassis is round & not egg shaped & torque the CRUD outa that bolt. I mean SWING off it!!! Also check your radius arm bushes. They'll cause this as will worn tie rod ends.

[mudnut]

I jacked the rear axle up,

undid the tail shaft from

the flange, fitted the

flange tool I made last

year and used a long piece

of pipe on a breaker bar to

torque the nut up about an

eighth of a turn. I also used

a tyre lever to recheck all of

the rear bushes. I also pulled

the top panhard bolt out and

checked the bolt holes. After

re-torquing the nut super

tight I took the Old Trol

for a test run to a court and

did a few figure eights.

There is a definite

improvement. Some

of the bushes are getting

long in the tooth and will

be replaced when cash is

available.

[mudnut]

With the help of a
mate, who owns a
hoist, I torqued the
flange nut another
eighth of a turn.
The diff now has a
slight breakaway
torque, which is what
the manual recommends.
The test drive was
smoother too.

[mudnut]

I found that the lefthand side engine mount had also let go. The clunk has almost completely disappeared since renewing the mount. The diff probably needs to be checked properly. When finances permit, I would like to get the diff shimmed a bit tighter.

[threedogs]

@ MN I have laser cut washers if the body mounts are out of round, [weld on]
panhard mount on the chassis
Have all the "Clunk" jokes been done???

[Clunk]

I found that the lefthand side engine mount had also let go. The clunk has almost completely disappeared since renewing the mount. The diff probably needs to be checked properly. When finances permit, I would like to get the diff shimmed a bit tighter.

Dont worry fella, I haven't completely disappeared..... I'll always come back to haunt you when you least expect it

@ MN I have laser cut washers if the body mounts are out of round, [weld on]
panhard mount on the chassis
Have all the "Clunk" jokes been done???

Not at all mate, I'm sure there's plenty more to be had